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Looks like new! Good job. Did you have them remove the front splash guards and pioneer rack on purpose?

That is not paranoia, it is a reasonable precaution. Take the mushroom cap off and have a piece of 2x6 ready (preferably a soldier B at the ready) to shut off the air intake. Oh, and if there is no hose connected to the air connector on the air filter bucket, put a metal cap of some sort over...

Congrats on your truck! You seem to have done your home work! Just a note on the sand blasting: The CARC paint that was used to paint the truck is toxic and cancerogenic. Airway protection is a must when blasting and grinding this stuff. A note on the brakes: You will have the brake drums and...

Yes, the only ground for the dash panel is via the locking screws. An O-ring should not do bad things because you would still use the factory locking screws, but if you have ground issues after, you may want to run a ground wire.

Do you have the canvas for it? Seeing how it doesn't have sides, it must have a special set of bows.

Glad to see that you are still at it!

Wow..I would probably have cut out a newspaper cover, rattle-canned the bridge plate green and called it a day! The new one looks sharp, though!have

This is the time to look at all the flex hoses and steel brake lines, since you will need to bleed the brakes anyway. Also, check which brake fluid you have in the system (DOT-3 or DOT-5) and decide what you want to do (there are advantages/disadvantages to having either one). You cannot mix...

I replaced the copper bushing the transmission shaft slides into and it was a tight fit. Using longer studs instead of the transmission mounting bolts helped in sliding the tranny up to the bell housing. With everything lined up correctly I still had to put nuts on the studs and slowly snug...

I'll jump in, based on the mental image from your description. Pictures would be helpful! If you did have a leak on your front axle, it is either brake fluid or gear oil. You need to check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Is it low? The next step is to pull the wheel off and...

Well said, rusty.

Looks so much cooler than my ghetto tool made with a 1/2 inch ratchet extension, a deep socket and electrical tape to increase diameter.

A lot of good advice and reflections in this thread. I am afraid, you might be in a bit of a conundrum here, described as follows: 1) $6-10k 2) 10k trouble-free miles ahead, minimum maintenance 3) military vehicle with largely unknown past, 20-45 years old PICK TWO OUT OF THREE !

A good torque wrench that can do in lbs, another good one that does ft lbs. Piston ring compressor Do the rear main seal housing modification, if not already done (drill two holes) Cylinder head nut tool (SnapOn M 4276A rather than the military original that likes to snap off (ha ha) at torques...

Now that you seem to have it somewhat loose, get penetrant in there, walk away and give it an hour or so to soak before you hit it again.

PM sent

Also an option is a modern gear reduction starter: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?78375-Replacing-my-starter-with-a-gear-reduction-style/page2

You are doing the right thing. The Spicer is a synchronized transmission and they really do not like clutch-less shifting. In fact, Eaton, the makers of some 80% of the heavy truck manual transmissions, ask the operators in their manual to please clutch/double clutch their unsynchronized...

I used a three arm puller and it came off without a fight.

Respectfully, a Model T is also "easier" to work on than any modern car. There are, however, trade-offs. My bad modern teutonic diesel SUV did 160k km on nothing but oil changes and new brakes. Try that with a Model T. By the time you get to 160k km you will be able to disassemble and...