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There is cases of DOT 5 by the gallon on that auction site now for 96 bucks total delivered.
There is the "one man brake bleeder" at NAPA for about 8 bucks to put on the end of the individual bleeders that work real good with less mess. Rig a power bleeder and use that. Get 7 or 8 clear jars and...
Some of the attached may help
This is my best files on the subject and it belongs in here due to the title.
The TB 43-0002-87 02051982 is probably what you need to comply with but since I was searching thru 12GB of files I put the other attachments here into SS so they don't get "lost"...
Put RR tandem side up on the jack stand and back that set of brakes shoes all the way off. If it is internal problem you might get it to spin just like that. Take jackstand for the left side too to get the whole rear tandem up to spin either side without pulling an axle. Take the proper fitting...
Was just thinking all the stuff the truck did, like making jobs for me I would not otherwise do.
Never posted most of it, for instance is mulched the beds in 20017, a buck a cubic foot.
and that 28 foot of chain is now for sale.
When with a regular car things probably are straightforward.
With a 7 ton tactical military vehicle the operator owes it to everyone else to read and comply with the owners manual. Read TM 9-2320-361-10
total cost is $#85.65 and worth every penny. We all already paid for them to be in Bradley fighting vehicles.
They were 50 bucks then the SS bought them all. Maybe I should I put my last one in the classifieds?
I have seen many photos of different parts of the "gringeltaube truck" and may I suggest you
use only edible grease because we could eat right off that truck!
I would like to see more of those Photos.
Just a thing to for moving mounted tires, toolboxes full, and stuff in and out
of truck without breaking anything or getting hurt. $134 bucks total HFright crane.
It swings between trucks and loading docks, no Jeeps.
Pictures for the General.
and troop seats still work as per design
Photos out...
For me the Kroil worked then I worked moving that deal up and down many times.
I wanted it to work as per design and I and the Kroil won.
Lot of fun driving around the city and down dragging the beach like that.
It was worth all the time and effort, job cost almost nothing.
Notice that so many of the bolts of the truck are NF threads so soak them in give it time to work with your Kroil or ATF mix or whatever you use, soak them good.
It is always good to know the fastener specifications before taking things apart.
Pictures for the general, NOT, due to scanner...
look in here.........................
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162866-M35A2-Parking-Brake
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?139001-Parking-Brake-Rivets
About these hoses. Don't even touch them until you have replacements ready to go on.
Maybe this will help some
see post 30 in here
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?163387-Rebuilding-the-Injection-pump
Pictures and things for the General.
some more
more
Assure you are torquing against NEW copper waster washers (squish washers) when you tighten them up. It don't take much. Clean mating surfaces is good.
I call them waster washers, squish washers, because there is stuff inside them. One is supposed to toss them and install new ones...
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