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Probably not directly but if you have moisture in your air system and the truck has been sitting then things may not work right. The front brakes are just service brakes. Air pressure engages them. If there is a hole in one diaphragm then that brake won't engage properly. The rears are spring...

When you release the parking brake air will momentarily vent out the front gladhand. It should not continue to leak through. There is a check valve behind the front grill it can get some sand or dirt in it and cause air to leak out the gladhand. You cannot block off the gladhands or your brakes...

Nice. They drive much nicer than the m939 trucks. Could be a brake issue maybe one of the front service brakes are stuck. Does it drive straight with no braking? Does it feel like anything is dragging when driving?

There are nice led light bulbs available now. Fluorescent style ones that do not need any ballast and run on 120vac single phase. You can use a toner to identify wires from the panel to the light and just reuse what you need to. Always ground everything though very important so use all 3 wires...

Easier to just take the batts out. You wont want weak batteries in the winter its prob a good idea to get some new ones. I have 4 new Hawker AGM batts. I have all the lighting stuff and audio for my truck just havent had time to install it. I had a thread somewhere I added a reverse cam and some...

No I had thought about it but I have new batteries and they are easy to get in and out the way they are now. I have a bunch of stuff I want to do like lighting and a stereo that I havent had time to do. Will

The tractor rear axles are different than the 1078 rear axle. Although the axle shafts and hub gearing may be the same.

Negative on the left battery to positive on the right battery. Left battery positive to truck batteries positive, right battery negative to truck batteries negative. Chart on inside of batt cover will guide you.

2 decent size jump packs in series should get it started. The battery box cover has a diagram inside so you know where to connect.

The truck has a dual voltage 12/24 system. It is shared and not independent. You can disconnect both positives off the batteries. There are 12 and 24 volt that go up to the polarity protection block under the spare tire and there is another 24 volt positive lead that goes to the starter.

You can use a pair of needle nose pliars to hold the pin as you are soldering the wires in. Just put a rubber band on the handle. If you get extra solder on the side it can be filed off with a small file before you put the pin back into the connector.

I have the mil Dearborn protocol adapter boxes both serial and usb versions. I need the y cable though.

No nothing good there for me.

Its only around 300 miles from me. Not too hard to get back. Something else to play with.

If you are driving a MV at its reasonable speed say 55 on a highway where everyone else travels at say 75 you need flashing amber lights or strobes on the back of your truck. They are easy to magnet mount and you can tap into the rear lights for power.

I have it all. The full mil diag setup with software installed on a laptop and the Dana diag program. Just not the Y cable that goes between the harness and ctis control to allow access.

It has bushings in the ends but the back hanging part is a different part.

I always thought the screw valve cap piece on some wheels was a quick release valve to dump air in a hurry.

You could try posting or having this moved to the lmtv forum. I haven't seen much in the way of A1 TMs though. They might include some of the up armor stuff so they don't just get public released. A lot of the first gen ones still apply to a good portion of the truck.

If you want to move 10 tons of artillery shells down a dry dirt road the truck excels at that. Mud not so much. I have heard from another member he had good luck mudding in his M1078.