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I think the drain plug is a great idea.

If the sw itself is leaking oil, i would not call it serviceable...

The sniff test may or may not be conclusive, as if the axle vent is not leaking CTIS air when stationary, it may not be bad enough to allow gear oil into the CTIS side of the seal as the axle side, being vented, is never under any real pressure... The outer bearing is wet, the inner bearing is...

Well quality is pretty subjective… I don't recall ever personally seeing a bad domestic oil pressure switch on a car or truck. But have come across quite a few bad Nason oil pressure switches on this forum alone, in this relatively small LMTV comunity… I do not know that I would call the...

The Dual digital came from Summit or off Amazon, would have to look it up. My CTIS controller was bricked when I got my truck, and I didn’t want to throw money at another when they appear to be a fairly high failure item. So I configured a manual electric control. The top display on that...

In this vid I show hooking up a basic mechanical oil pressure gauge kit to measure Primary fuel pressure. I used a C-clamp to squeeze the line to dampen pulsations, so it worked like the installed gauge in the above video.

Well if it was OK before the IFS kit?… Is it possible to install the IFS backwards? Filters are typically designed for flow in one particular direction… Have you removed and inspected the IFS filter? You could probably remove the IFS filter and run it with just an empty filter housing to test...

Looks retracted/off to me. If you start the truck, and with the transmission in N, set the ex brake switch to the warmup position. That should apply air to the cylinder and extend the cylinder/engage the ex brake butterfly to load the engine and warm it up faster… you could also remove that...

Yes, Rotella T4 15W40 should be just fine.

Or was he referring to Rotella T4 15W40?

Now thats not fair, I am sure if it had landed right side up, it would have been just fine… These trucks were pretty significantly overbuilt. I have not heard of anyone bending one permanently in typical use. All the ones from auction seem straight enough, and that is where the trashed ones...

Besides being commonly available, another good thing about that series of alt is that they also have a remote sense input. This allows you to run a sense wire to the battery + terminal so the alt can adjust its output to deliver its rated voltage AT the batteries. Because of losses on heavily...

Nice, yep, the equalizer is only needed if you are drawing 12 out of the series wired 24v battery bank. if you use the vanner or bussman as a converter(or any other 24-12 converter for that matter), the batteries only ever see 24v in or out so will naturally find their own state of balance And...

Does your ex brake disengage when you step on tbe brake pedal?

Do you have it set on the right mode, 12v vis 12v agm or 12v lithium?

Correct, the solenoid valve power when in warmup comes from the neutral relay and only passes thru the switch. Contacts. If the ex brake light is coming on there is power on K16 pin4(87A on the drawing K16), as that is its source. The light power taps off before the warmup/ex brake switch...

Should be the de-energized relay contact, looks to be pin4 on that relay. It will be 24V. I have not seen an ex brake config setup to operate the brake lights before...

Are they dusty? Could be minerals fromthe dust crystalizing with condensed moisture… what voltage is the tender holding the batteries at? Wash them off with soap water and a brush and rinse them clean and see if it returns…

The ex brake light on the A1 receives the same power the ex brake solenoid valve does, so light on means brake engaged. Like I wrote above, That power originates at the ECU. and passes thru K16 contacts and also powers its coil. But it passes thru the de-energized contacts. So relay off = ex...

There are only 2 actuator part numbers in the 24P. One for front(no park springs) and one for rear(with park springs)…