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If you ever find one, I have the upgraded brackets for the 66”

I have an extra controller cable to the light itself...now just need the power cable and control box and it will be complete.

I got it...

Thank you, I have the brackets for it, and maybe the cables...no control box, I already have 2 of these kits

This is actually a better solution than the fuel cutoff, the fuel cutoff will still allow someone to crank the truck, the NSS will not spin the starter.

CTIS is garbage and they don’t come in HMMWV’s that the US military uses...the A2’s are CTIS capable though I believe SF had them in GMV’s...but not rank and file Hmmwv’s . AC is already in most of the M1123’s...it’s standard In all new trucks.

Your asking for a cheap truck and you have listed upgrades that will have you in the $30k range. buy an M1123 or M1097A2, they already have everything you want minus the turbo engine. Keep in mind, you can go it alone and venture into the auctions “good luck”, be patient and don’t post in 6 mos...

I’ve installed these mirriors Once, I found them to suck..ever time door was closed it moved mirror, they rattled and were hard to see out of...

Thats the water seperator drain valve...have you ever driven this truck before? Or A HMMWV. sounds like what your describing is the fluid flowing through your Cadillac valve,...

that part number is for a LAU industry box...the absolute worst. I think most folks think you changed the engine harness, that is where the GP connections are, that harness you have spares the engine harness GP leads and uses a separate harness that plugs into the LAU box...you might want to...

They break for 2 reasons, stress and improper install of the fuel pump...Ive replaced several over the years. The pump will go on even though the rod and plunger aren’t aligned, the proper method is usually supplied with the pump. pack the rod with assembly lube to hold it in place fully...

Already exceeding the acceptable speeds for this trucks design with that motor and trans. but I know everyone will chime in that they do 80 all the time....let her rip.

Anything is possibl, but PMCS would have uncovered that. So I guess we will never know. But a bad temp gauge leaves it all to speculation. No fan and no idea of air temp and how the truck was driven leaves another black hole....what I can say, is that no fan will overheat the truck.

Take your pick...thermostatic switch, Bad TDM, bad Cadillac valve...I just replaced a bad Cadillac valve yesterday, wasnt the Cadillac valve solenoid, something was clogged in the valve. 75% of the time its the thermostatic switch, 20% TDM, the rest Cadillac valve. unplug the TDM and see that...

why don’t you buy from a reputable seller? I mean someone who knows the trucks? not some guy on FB or CL thats selling... I tell all my perspective customers, come to the shop, look, listen and test drive the truck...i do it a few times a week. the feedback Is 100%, “thank you, you were totally...

you could delete the lift pump and install an Electric lift pump...that rod is quite standard for all older GM trucks.

Man, not,sure where to start....but first off, a temp gauge has nothing to do with overheating. if the gauge was not working, driving the truck was not a good idea, at least not for distances. did the fan come on? You would know...as it sounds like a jet taking off, if it did not, that’s why you...

Chances are good you will need a special star hex tool to remove the 3 screws. they have anti tamper nubs on them.

Pull the pump cover and check that the armature for the cutoff is easily Manipulated with your Pinky finger...it’s a very fine return spring and does not take much crap to make it not move when the solenoid is energized. 50% of the m1123’s I get in the shop have bad pumps due to sitting for...

i have a driver out of LA that hauls all my stuff on the west coast, I also now have a driver who hauls from Albany GA to my shop, I have an M1152 that will be here tuesday.