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so your going to tear down a Tcase and replace a part based on a hunch? more often than not...bad hal shafts of differential is the culprit. i haven’t had a bad Tcase in the shop in so long i can’t say when I saw a bad one last.

start buy looking at your halfshafts at each wheel...when you lose a HS, the way you get going again is to put the Tcase in HL to force full time power through tcase, sends torque to all 4 wheels.

Sounds like a broken halfshaft or bad differential.

If the top does not leak, than the wood won’t get wet....

not understanding, the truck stays in H unless shifted into HL or Low... all shifting of Tcase is done with engine off and trans in neutral...per the TM

Same location till ECV‘s came out

Your not going to get anything at a steal from AMG...the usual distributors Have a slight markup to make a profit. AMG sold to the public many years ago, so this is not new....or, I guess it is for the newbs. AMG is a poorly run company and makes money in spite of themselve.

whats the tensioner doing at 1500 Rpm...its, easy to see failing dampener or crank pulley, just look while running, should be no wobble. Don’t look for perfection on the red dot setup, this is not a precise OEM solution. i had a truck that kept eating serp belts, alignment looked good and...

You also may have killed the batteries beyond charging....so just charging them won’t do any good, check the load on each battery, you can show a full charge and they won’t take a load...hence, click click click

What do you mean by ignition kill switch? your OEM start switch on the dash?

If you use the correct paint stripper, it’s not that bad, still dirty and messy though. need a good polyurethane stripper And a few applications. your truck based on pics is more an exception to the rule. looks like an ops group truck from NTC....those trucks were beat. ive had many of them...

[ I cant disagree more on That statement...my advice has been to buy the mechanics of a truck and not it’s appearanc. I could cite you example after example from invoices here in the shop. Paint is just paint, it’s purely cosmetic, blown engine and the cost to replace would exceed the purchase...

Way to many people get wrapped up in this GM vs GEP....it’s only the Turbo motor that had the #8 issue. I’ve seen an equal number of blown GM and GEP motors in my shop...so I frankly dont care on the NA side.

many m1123’s were reset, they could have gotton whatever serp setup they put in between the 2. early or late style regardless of SN range. But for the most part, 99-2000 you will see the early. ive even seen early early ECV M1113 with old style.

You have the clutch pulley...12469149-3 https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/BELT-SERPENTINE-196901-ABOVE-114-IN_p_16133.html

And it makes no difference on SN for the serp setup, you have either old style serp that uses a plate, or the late style that is all mounted on cast iron brackets. The late Style is on many many M1123’s and M1097A2’s, but many of the early series use the old style. The geared fan drive REV...

There are 2 belts, and it depends on if you have clutch or non-clutch pulley on the 400amp. if it’s the clutch pulley, it’s the standard belt 300k and above....not sure what it is for solid pulley, but the belt is about 1-1.5in longer.

just my .02 -There are 2 versions of 12 bolt rim, early uses a black o-ring, late uses a red o-ring. The easiest way to know what you have is that late style has a,”centering hole“, early does not. -Hummer H1 rims are the same as military rims, but even H1’s used early and late style 12 bolt...

They Both have to used on there specific serpintine setup, that are not compatible across the two different serp set ups. The TM will show you the correct UOC and truck SN range.

don’t ruin that pulley....it’s not press fit on, use some PB blaster