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Here are the files I used. There are 2 sheets. I believe the first sheet gives you what you need for an 803A , for an 802A you need to substitute the "Heavy objects" stencil from 3/4" to 1/2" because the top cover is smaller. I ended up ordering both so that I can stencil both machines, but...

I purchased a set of stencils that I had custom made by a place on-line called Custom Cut stencils. ( I can probably dig up the proof layout they used for mine if anyone needs it ) They basically charge by the letter and can make stencils out of oil board as well as other plastic materials. It...

Hi Jeremy, PM sent with info on stencils, paint etc. I will post here as well so others can read. Thanks Ray.

Great, thanks Guy. Sorry about possible confusion calling it Pin 1, It was Pin 7 and 8 I was thinking of, but pictured it backwards in my mind. I did some testing last night. I was getting 120V on the sense lines and seemed like 67 VAC? on the 7 &8 quad lines which seemed odd and 24V on pins 5...

Looks like I have a 400 hr. tier 2 reset 802A with the same "low AC output" issue. I get 240 on the meter while holding S1 in the crank position, but output drops off to about 56VAC ( 28V per leg ) when I release S1. The machine has the quad fuse mod, which tests good. I plan to work on this...

Correct, but you only need to worry about the voltage dropping, the Hz will not change due to the cord size or length , only the voltage will drop. Hz is solely dependent on engine RPM and will only change when the engine speed changes.

How much are you looking to raise it? like 5-8 volts? What are you using for cordage? You can raise the voltage a bit to compensate, but if you're seeing more than about a 5 or 6 volt drop, you might have something else going on.

Lucky it was just a shop rag! I was recently working on an 803A with the top cover and exhaust manifold off... at night, using my snap-on flashlight looking closely at the exhaust ports for signs of smoke, i had a lapse of attention and stuck the butt end of the flashlight and my pinky finger...

Hello, my personal opinion, with limited experience.... Dependable, Reliable, Overbuilt... No, No and No. Single cylinder, 3100-3600ish. rpm, inverter style with a poorly designed controller board... that will probably have a life expectancy in the 1500 hour range. Better than a gas generator...

I second that motion. You have to clean it and see where the leak is coming from. It could be the ( orange ) push rod tube seals, side cover gasket, even the oil pressure sensor hose/fitting. No sense guessing. if it's the side cover, you can get just the gasket pretty cheap or I see an entire...

They also make a blue digital Hz gage in the same small package size as your V / Current meters. I just bought some for about $7 each. You can also get cheap round analog 90mm gages on ebay from a place in china. Direct read Hz for $12 and 300V AC for about $6. They are pretty chincy plastic...

Well, back to working on this 005 again and looking for some guidance. I had it running fine after rebuilding the IP. I started it the other day and it ran for about 5 seconds and shut off. While troubleshooting it I'm noticing a few odd things. 1) At first it seemed no fuel was flowing from...

On the solenoid, in short, yes you are correct. it's sole purpose is basically to turn the fuel supply on and off via the fuel rack which is attached internally to the metering pumps in order to start and stop the machine. It would be very unlikely that the solenoid itself would fail in the "ON"...

Yup, the 802's are quite often clogged in the hose from tank to the petcock. Blow it back and it should clear it. Once drained you can remove it and clean it out good... might as well replace the tank's well nut since you're already 1/2 way there.

K9medic, to answer about you clamp meter readings, yes if you were pulling 26A per leg then you are at 52A at 240V. So yes, about Full load. How many tonne is you A/C unit? That seems like a pretty large draw for even a 5 tonnne, probably almost double what I would expect. I assume 52A was the...

So it looks to me like the lines you are simple -8 or 1/2" 37* JIC flare swivels ( 3/4" x 16 threads ) one line is 17 1/4" from center to center of the 90* fittings, the other is 18 1/4" center to center. Here is the fitting you want https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/FJX90-08-08.html You...

humm... that hose looks different than the hoses in the oil cooler kit the other person is selling. In the add for the kit it also appears that the fittings are brazed onto the cooler itself, meaning you will not be able to change that to something different. I'll look when I get home and see...

I have a parts machine with the shroud off, let me take a look tonight and see if I can tell what you would need to do to adapt it to modern fittings. There is someone on ebay selling a whole kit and the lines look like either 90* SAE or JIC flare swivels on both ends, which are both easy to...

Humm.... twisted wire on left side? When looking at the pump is the wire on the right side near the governor linkage arm? There is usually some safety wire tied around the throttle stop screws. A leak there is probably coming from the o-ring around the throttle shaft. Unfortunately you have...

Are you reading 245 on the gage or on a DMM, etc.? You really have no reason to go above 245 but there is a Potentiometer in the voltage regulator ( accessible through the small hole in the cover just above the wire connections ) I don't really suggest messing with it if you don't need to...