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I would think that, as long as you can clamp the cable sheath properly, the length of the cable setup is not really relevant. The lever moves the cable a certain amount - regardless of how long cable and sheath are in total. As you said - I would try and route it more "generously" and see if...
Put the prybar into whichever universal joint of the shaft is more convenient. Removal of injectors not required (but, obviously, makes rolling over the engine easier, if so inclined). Also...before I pry I always "bump" the starter to get the engine close to where I want it and only "fine tune"...
What is the NAPA number for the one with the correct cup expanders? I looked in the cross-reference but it doesnt specify. I know that there are the "cheap" ones that start to leak after a while.
I learned (on this forum) that it is often simpler to just make your own, correct gaskets. Here is an article: https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hsx/2010/04/Gasket-Making-101/3012301.html
You have the coolant manifolds to make the gaskets...I warn you, you might be shocked about how simple this...
I do not know if the bolts can back out sufficiently for the flywheel to spin freely without the bolts falling out...maybe not enough clearance in the housing for them to come all the way out. What else can make the flywheel spin freely? Broken crank?
Did you check that on the starter side? Do you actually see the flywheel move while the engine doesn't turn over? If that is indeed true, open the inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing....the flywheel bolts should fall out....
The flywheel ring is heat shrunk onto the flywheel, so...
In a pinch, you can McGyver an alignment tool from a 1/2inch extension and two sockets (a deep socket and a regular one) of the appropriate sizes (you can determine the sizes easily by inserting the sockets and extension into pressure plate/flywheel), as well as electrical tape to fine-tune the...
Also, the thermostat seal is a great one to learn how to make a gasket yourself. The cast housing has sharp edges, making it easy to take a sheet of gasket material, laying it over and gently hammering along the edges to "cut" the shape out. Any thicker gasket material will do. You can hammer...
Wow, I should have known that there was a proper diagram! My reaction to the question was "the soft top just fits down the gap and I have a hard time getting my hand in to deal with the bungee cord, so it is a small gap".
This has been discussed many times. There is no "wrong" place for a temperature probe in the manifold, but you need to know what you are measuring. In his case, he is measuring the pre-turbo exhaust temp of the rear three cylinders. I'd add a second probe in the same location on the front and...
I do have a takeout main shaft. You may not need one, depending whether or not the sheared keys in the spinning gears caused damage, yet.
The keys are standard keys - I actually got a set from my NAPA guy's magic drawer box.
Unless you are dead-set on swapping trannys, perhaps taking the top...
It is a PITA but you can do it with "regular" tools. If the pulley halves spin freely, you can get a good starting tension just by hand...then do as you described...pipe wrench and a wrench that can grab the other half.
"The bugs are all out. Performance is proven." They are talking about the LDS-427. Love it. That engine was not destined for a long and happy life in MVs.
From what you describe, you had left the thermostat in place and, naturally, the thermostat's job is to cut off coolant flow through the radiator (for the most part). That is why hoses/coolant parts close to the engine get warm, but the rad stays cold.
You already replaced coolant (you did use...
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