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No. Oil pressure will immediately push oil through the line and purge any air. You may want to replace the copper seal at the oil line fitting though and you may want to use a new gasket between manifold and turbo.

A lot depends upon what shape the truck is you are buying. A truck that has sat for five years (like the one I picked up) is a different beast than an in-service truck that has been PM'ed regularly. Known defects that need to be nursed vs. the great unknown or stuff that simply decides to break...

Not to side-track, but I will have to break in my engine the normal way - by driving. After install, I will need to idle the engine to ensure it runs reasonably well, compressor builds air and that there are no leaks before I get going. How long of an idle period is acceptable before the engine...

As bigmike said - Heat can come from dragging brakes (but usually that means the drums get really hot, not just warm) or from friction in the hub itself (seal, preload etc.). I was taught that as long as you can put your naked hand onto the hub and can stand leaving it there, the hub is not too...

Pictures!!!!

Please let us know how this progresses! :popcorn:

Could you post a part number from that 5 speed tranny, please? The Ford 7.3 Powerstrokes could be had with a ZF 5-speed, if I am not mistaken. Probably not the same tranny.

sliding hammer? If you don't have one, many autoparts places have them as rental tool.

In order to re-torque the heads, the valve train has to come off anyway, correct? Would removing/replacing the valve train not automatically require valve re-adjustment?

I think your reaction was very good and you nailed the issue. I would be concerned about crud sitting in the fuel tank, getting stirred up with the refuel and making a mess of the new filters in due course. If it were my truck, I would probably want to check and clean out the fuel system...and...

I would spin out a stud and get replacements and hardware while the penetrating oil does its magic. When you re-assemble, put the exhaust and intake manifolds on together. No force required - be patient if they hang up somewhere. You should be able to seat them by hand only, then secure with a...

Soak all the exhaust fasteners with ATF for a couple of days before removal. You will probably find some gunk in the water manifolds to clean out. Depending on the carnage upon removal you might need some new studs for intake and or exhaust; be careful with the water manifold hardware - on mine...

Hmmmm...had no problem matching them up at the local fastener place. Here is the info about the exhaust manifold stud: https://nationalstocknumber.info/part-number/913343X5_005762806 How did I find this? 1) http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm 2)...

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I checked them out when I removed them and they were rock hard. You can hammer nails in with them. Not broken, but there did not appear to be any give in them at all. Fully cured, I'd say.

Thank you Dave! They are NOS, correct?

Good advice. A Deuce was designed to haul light to medium loads over rudimentary roads. It was not designed to haul heavy and it was not designed as an OTR truck. Just because it can does not mean it should. A Deuce will haul 10k lbs. At 12k lbs you will be overweight, as per data plate. In...

Multi M35 - Does anybody have a source or type or number for new (as in not NOS) engine mounts from a readily accessible supplier? Do any current parts match them, dimension-wise? I looked at a few NOS and might as well leave my rock hard old ones in. The M35A2 has 8 engine mounts (isolators...

Mine did this when the hydraulic head on the injection pump started to go bad. It would start up fine, idle, run, but - at times - coming to a stop or doing a slow gear shift at low speed where the rpm drop to idle, it would simply stop, as if you had pulled the engine shutoff. If fuel supply...

Yes, in.