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If you mean the stock A2 wheels/ 9.00x20 tires, YES. Answers to all your other Qs. can be found i.e. in TM 9-2610-200-14 (listed here) G.

Ideally, that area between pump and rad. should not be left open. Especially at higher ambient temperatures you want the fan to suck all the air through the core - and help keep those 50 extra horses cool! I say that there is enough room to accomplish that, without any risk of interference -...

Yes. G.

Those are just made of aluminum...; stud-centered 2pc tubeless bolt together design; wheel width; stud hole circle; pilot hole, backspace; all seems to be the same as for the steel FMTV wheels. Definitely NOT MRAP wheels. G.

Hard to believe... since DOT5 has a much higher specific gravity than glycol-based DOT3/ DOT4. Edit: .... just found out (after a little testing) that my statement was incorrect...! Don't know where I had that misconception from... fact is that silicon brake fluid actually floats on top of...

Really....??? Well, maybe... if you consider 4.3 inches to be "near zero offset"...? :???: Yes, please replace them; they are absolutely worthless and even unsafe if they leak.....! Just let me know; I'll take them - for what they bring as scrap metal......... :razz: G.

NOT normal; most likely worn out beyond limit...? Dimensions and wear limits are in TM9-2520-246-34, on page 3-25. G.

If you counted 4 points it should be or was std 1/2" square; now probably stripped... but can be fixed by mig-welding it up - if no better replacement to be found. Edit: Posts like this made me a bit unsure, after my initial statement; so I went out and checked the plugs on at least 10...

Correct. And that "thin copper gasket" (which it is not) goes between cup and piston. .... He just couldn't find the 2nd hole.......... :mrgreen: (...... which of course is there and going all the way into the cylinder, although only about 0.02" in diameter) G.

Inner WS assy, ebay? So far I haven't seen them for less than $149 + shp, ea. ??? G.

OK, then plan "B": contraction - after been heated real hot... I don't think it would affect the shaft if you heat the key (or what's left from it) to light red and then let it cool down. Not the full lenght; just one inch at the time! And of course, heating had to happen with your biggest...

Dimensions for M35 inner WS frame and glass, posted here..... G. Edit: That thread I linked to, has been deleted. See all inner WS-Frame & glass dimensions, below....

FDC bypass YES. Read here G.

No, you could not... because you did not click on "Search" and simply type in "sprag adjustment" ... (?) Now, IF you did... lots of useful threads would pop up! Or start with this post and also click on the links; which will take you to other posts with even more links, etc, etc...... G.

Hey, no wires or air lines there, running to the front axle... it is the front output of the transfer case that gets engaged (or not). Start by crawling under your truck and looking up at the front of your TC. Then tell us which model you have. (only 2 options; below........) G.

No, do as you prefer... and install drive shaft, last. More on adjusting PTO input gear backlash, here. G.

You are posting the same Q. again... did you try clamping them very tight with a Vicegrip and then hitting the tool with punch & hammer? Shown here; has always worked for me. G.

I do it this way.... G.

Ehhmm..., after your post, earlier on...? I suppose that you did (visually, at least) inspect that take-out $300 transmission inside, before starting the swap...? G.

Drawings were copied from this fine TM. Other info was taken from that classic book ORD 9 SNL G-742, Jan1955. (Took me a while before I found out that there is a misprint on the number for the upper bearing cup #7406935, on page 593...) See resulting GIF files, attached below... G.