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[thumbzup]... most impressive.....! (I would love to see pics - the dirt, I mean.........:lol:) G.

LOL... trying to imagine that...:smile: FYI, most of the bearings are std sized & comercially available. So you can shop around a bit before ordering. Just avoid made-in-China bearings; make sure you get US-made Timken; NSK or equivalent! In the exploded view below, I have added the...

:ditto: We need a NEW source! Although his site is still up, I think DK has completely abandoned the dataplate business since almost 1 year ago. G.

Good Q.! A: Depending on what generation - probably not like that old gasser-M35 shift plate...!? Time will tell...........:razz: Now, if we are talking about this particular winch-DP, usually not even the ones from factory last long... after close contact with wire rope; hook & chain...

Thanks for the heads-up, Torisco! That's exactly the one winch dataplate I had been looking for! Pictured below is just another version of the same. I like that black/ aluminum one; only thing I would add (only to make it look more original) are those two arrows. Also, for better looks and...

Something else....????? I know, I know... you're just putting me to the test. :smile: Sorry, no 5ton tranny laying around to go out and measure; so just part#s and specs from the book, this time... Hope it helps, anyway. G.

That would be a 6311NR G.

Yes, it's a reinforcement for the cab's rear wall, upper edge. Not sure that it has anything to do with keeping the soft top in place... G.

Have you balanced your tires/ wheels....???? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/78732-a3-front-tire-balance-w-eriks-lug-nut-fix.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/64519-wheel-balancing-a3.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/76494-replacing-a3-wheel-counter-weights.html G.

All the best!!:beer: G.

FYR, below are some pics of a real bad one... Sorry I don't have a brand new (un-installed) synchro, to show for comparison. Note the wear pattern (shiny area) on the "drive" side of the dogs, of both parts: significantly tapered to-wards the tip. Who knows how long that assembly had been...

It could be the photo but those synchro dogs show the typical wear; enough to be jumping out - if this was confirmed. Maybe you could post some better close-up's; especially where the arrows point at...??? G.

See why, below .... (drawing, to scale) With 8 more inches between engine and diff. and suspension travel limited to 5" it may not interfere... G.

Besides the pressure regulator your installation should include a water separator, right before the air hose connection, like in this kit. More about water condensation and how to avoid it, here. G.

That looks to be a hub-centric design; with a pilot hole diameter and mounting-hole circle larger than the classic 8-3/4" and 11-1/4", respectively (=5ton). Not sure what they are from, though. G.

That would be a negative "camber" situation. For the rear axle it is only possible if the axle housing or tube was bent, i.e. from vehicle being dropped or severely overloaded. Yes, a good eye can catch even 1/2 of a degree, off. Anything over that should be addressed ASAP, if you don't want...

Radials or bias tires doesn't matter. If the wheels are 20x7.5 (or eventually 20x8.0) the ring is the same for 2.5 and 5tons. Before I switched over to super singles I have often used 5ton rings to replace those rusty ones on the Deuce. G.

Ah, OK... it simply looked too massive to be steel. Nice wheels, BTW!! It seems to me that (in both cases, Al and Fe) it should be very easy to recenter them for the Deuce: i. e., a 1/2"-plate machined to the 6 on 8-3/4" pattern, turned/ milled down to 3/8" only where it bolts to the (inner...

Those look to be aluminum wheels...????? G.

IMHO the best solution to remove scratches and paint is wet sanding...: starting with 500-grit paper, then 1000; 1500 and up to 2500. Then car polishing compound (Tourtle Wax or similar)... G.