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You are very lucky! - if all it takes is fixing those threads... (after dinner, of course....!!!! :smile:)
I may suggest using teflon tape to help keep that plug sealed.
Since I said I would look at it.... (and just for the sake of completeness): found out today that that spring may indeed...
There are no seals in the rear axle tubes...
Question is if that spring could get from inside the axle tube to the bottom of the axle housing, with the differential carrier in place.
Probably not... so maybe Steve's theory applies in this case?
G.
That was what I thought at first; that that spring had been left in the spindle during a brake job, then "got lost" and finally pushed all the way in when they put the axle shaft back in place.
But I'm not sure if that spring would easily come out through one of the windows in the differential...
Yes, that is (was) a brake shoe return spring, and it got both ends broken off. So the "metal" pieces found could be just that...?
As long as there are no gear tooth fragments I wouldn't worry too much.
G.
YES.... and they are un-used on the front axle hubs.
1) it is the same hub (part#) on all axles.
2) on the rear axles (with hubs flipped like on the A3) those holes are used to bolt the drum center plates in place.
3) on the A2 rear axles those are the bolt holes for the axle flange bolts.
G.
No need for IMPACT here...
All you have to do is find/build something like a 3' long bar, possibly 1-1/2"x 5/8" or 2"x1/2" flat stock, at least on one end, then drill two 13.5mm holes in it at 78mm C-C distance and offset to one side to leave space for your 1-1/2" socket. Firmly bolt this end...
If possible,
Check for excessive play on PTO input gear & shaft.
Check for broken or severely pitted gears inside PTO.
Look for wear/grooves on winch input shaft.
Inspect worm gear: put winch upside down, open drivers side drain plug (either 9/16" Allen wrench or 1/2" square), get a...
That plate is hardened carbon steel. That's why the tabs break off instead of bending. I wouldn't take the risk trying to weld on it.
Hey, someone a bit closer than me should have a spare plate laying around, or pull one out of the top cover - it only takes a couple of minutes!
G.
Interesting... and you really believe that you could neutralize hydrochloric acid with acetic acid?
Or did you mean to say sodium bicarbonate, soda ash, baking soda, lime, ammonia solution, etc. ....?
G.
Hey Ty, its an H pattern, but this one is upside down!
Don't you understand that THAT IS ODD and reason enough to be re-engineered ASAP, as top priority on the long to-do list to design the ultimate, 75mph M36A2 .......:-P
G.
See my drawing here, now updated with seal #s commercially available.
That "modern" seal would have to be located - not in the hub itself, but in the attached drum center plate (after machining to 120mm).
Not sure if reinventing THIS "wheel" makes much sense at all...:?
G.
Yes, for some "modern" part-time 4x4's, where drive flange and wheel hub is one and the same piece. They simply sell better when in the broshure it says "shift-on-the-fly", or "no need to get out -and dirty...", for manual hubs at least.
But we are talking about FW-Hubs (FW= Free Wheeling!)
I...
WOW, designing, he...???
Yes, that transmission shift pattern is an ODD one and definitely needs to get addressed; I would start right there with the long list of modifications.....
Just let me know exactly what measurements you need!:)
G.
Just saw in this Tatra catalog that the newer heavy trucks all come with 16.00R20 mounted on 20x10 wheels.
So I put your image to scale against the HEMTT wheel and it seems there is little or no interference to the valve stem; so it should work... if enlarging the pilot hole and drilling new...
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