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Sounds like you are really NEW here...? no hello, no short intro, nothing... should I say welcome...?
Anyway, you better believe it when a forum veteran says: ...."it has been covered here 100's of times" (Tom seems to be in a good mood today... :))
Just type in "Saginaw 710" or "Ross HF54"...
Not even halfway.... just gaining two inches that way, not seven as desired.
If this was for something permanent I would simply disassemble, flip and reweld the centers of the original wheels, either style - riveted or welded.
That would bring about 9" wider track.
It has been done... see...
Sorry, no personal experience here but..., somehow someone has done it, already...:) .... and maybe your problem is the main reason that that early design has been superseded?
I think even if there isn't a defined groove for the O-ring, it should go where the arrow points to, and stay there...
OK then, obviously not all kits are created equal... :)
I think the original steering box is well built for its original job and strong enough to handle the 9.00-20 (skinny) NDCC's, on and off-road, even on a winch-truck. "Armstrong steering" is perfectly tolerable, there, IMHO.
But that's...
Yes, UNLESS.... I am wrong and what is pictured in the right / lower corner is a cylinder that goes attached to the draglink, and the other part is just the control valve.....:???:
Guess we should see pictures of this kit installed before I put out premature opinions......:oops:
G.
Sorry Jesse.... I must disagree when you say it takes the load off of the box; actually it's just the opposite: for a given torque value coming out at the pitman shaft that system does indeed reduce the required torque input at the steering wheel, since what is pictured is just a torque...
OEM pin diameter is 9/32" (7.14mm) and the hole size should be not more than 7.2mm for them to fit correctly.
But..... most often I have found those holes enlarged to 5/16"or even 8mm, possibly during rebuild, so custom-made pins with comparable strength had to be made to fit...
G.
Don't worry, just make another one but using steel parts, not plastic.
Works better and you can claim it your's... :razz:
Make sure your tool comes to rest exactly where the red arrow points at...!
G.
Not... or it would repeat itself too often...!
695 lbs or 315 Kg (rated capacity) is what they specified for each and every one, on all twelve of the 2.5ton truck variants, here... (just click where it says "side elevation", for each model)
Kenny, you mean the one book you gave me last...
Slim...
In his 1st post the OP said "pedal has no play".... Even being a dual circuit MC there is only ONE pushrod w/clevis, attached to the pedal crank and adjustable in length.
Internal pressure WILL build up if for some reason that tiny (rear)orifice in the cylinder stayed closed after...
Hey John, thanks for coming to this sooo FABULOUS, PERFECT meeting point!
It was great to have another Steelsoldier - who actually knows about planes and helicopters! - with me for the whole day, explaining every detail.
Hope you didn't have too much trouble on your way home...?
For...
Another (nice!) way to skin a cat... and off course you can always take credit for having the initiative at least and creating AND sharing your own solution...
Now, our SEARCH FUNCTION must really be a fearsome tool to use...?? :???::)
Hey, it does NOT hurt at all...! Simply put in "backup...
Well, just let me know in case you changed your mind and the route back would eventually take you through Columbus... Maybe a 30gal diesel "bonus" would help...?:)
G.
They work best on original restored vehicles, for static displaying; museum exhibition; eventually doing parades on firm dry ground......:p
Try this one.
G.
Your pic #4 doesn't appear to me to be the oil filler hole... more likely the oil level hole; or was it even the oil drain plug you removed? :???:
I can see not a "channnel" but the end of the wormshaft in there; certainly dirty and rusty. According to that, at least both ball bearings probably...
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