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Yes....I pulled engine and tranny (with PTO) as a unit and learned the hard way that the transmission cover HAS to be taken off and that the PTO in combination with the winch still on the truck creates a PITA situation to lift the combo out. There is still some damage in the engine compartment I...
New rod and main bearings, new piston rings (my engine has the new style LDS pistons that take 3 rings; I know there is some confusion going on about these rings not fitting the conventional LDS pistons), new heads (new style) and new head gasket. Cleaning everything in the process.
Nothing...
Good point. If I do it on the trailer (I like that idea), and use the 2.5t front mounts with the rad bracket, then I can also install the factory radiator and that should take care of the cooling issue.
Rebuilt LDS is almost done; just putting the flywheel and clutch on. I don"t think I am brave enough to just put the engine into the truck and keep my fingers crossed that she will run and run right. I'd like to try her out before I go through the pain of lifting everthyng in.
My plan is to...
Yes, about 43 inches tall and the "correct" descriptor is 11.00R20.
I singled my truck out and then ran the stock 9.00R20 until I could afford to upgrade. I hated the look...the tires are too small. 11.00R20 look ok, IMHO. Wider would be even better.
I have my transmission on the bench to prepare for M-35 tom's overdrive kit. I cleaned layers of paint off the data plate and found this:
The dataplate says "3052" as transmission type, which would be the tranny behind a gas engine. The shift pattern is definitely multifuel, so is the shift...
For what it is worth, my truck had brass inserts in only about 50% of the hose ends. What this means is that when you tighten down on the fitting to stop a leak, the hose gets cut into, making the leak worse. So, when there is a leak, take the fitting apart and check for a ferrule! If there is...
Yes, old thread....you may also want to look at the hand crank start of a WWII German TIGER tank. The engine is a V12 Maybach HL230 out of a Tiger II - 23 L displacement (1400 ci).
They used a hand-cranked flywheel that was brought up to speed and then clutched to the engine to turn it over...
Here is a short youtube video by what looks like an eager apprentice mechanic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kctFgCiW5GM
Specs for the multifuel bell housing runout can be found in TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2 link...
I'd be a lot calmer about this thread if I had not put the surplus rings into my rebuild as well. I am getting started to drop the engine in....we'll see. My LDS has the new style 3-ring pistons, so I have reasonable hope that I am ok.
Are the other gauges fine? Electrical ground connection of gauge (via mounting bracket) or gauge panel (via four mounting screws), defective sending unit, defective gauge.
Others may chime in, but I think that the new style vinyl cargo covers are equipped with all the straps you need. The cover itself has the straps to hold the rolled-up sides, and the straps to hold itself to the roof supports. There is no further straps that need to be bolted to the uprights...
So, in practical terms, what does the difference mean? The longer LDS arm will push the valve stem farther (open the valve more), with the push rod travel being the same? The cross section of the air passages does not change - what is the significance, other than perhaps a little less...
I know that rocker arm differences for the intake valves have been mentioned before. TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 tabulates the LD/LDS/LDT engines (table 1.3) and just above the table speaks to the rocker arms. It states that the intake rocker arms for the LDS-465-2 are different in that they have an oil...
Wildchild467 gives us the same treatment as our favourite tv show, where you are all primed for a spectacular season finale....and they play three weeks of re-runs before that!
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