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Given the choice I would always pick the manufacturers serial number as that is what is usually specified by various state agencies and you can't go wrong there, I doubt a state inspector/bureaucracy cares what the USMC does or what GP says. If that is what GP saddled me with I of course would...

I am 90% sure that is a 6.2L, (looking at the water crossover) better than an early 6.5L but if they had changed the engine in 2004 it would most likely have been a GEP. A pic of the back of the engine with the doghouse removed would confirm. Pretty cool having one of the first full year of...

Make sure to check all the hubs and diffs for contamination.

YES, you are correct! for some reason I was adding a zero, second year of production

Modification Work Order. You can Google the numbers MWO 9-2320-280-20-1 Add power steering cooler MWO 9-2320-280-35-1 relocate parking brake (from drive shaft to rear calipers) MWO 9-2320-280-35-2 3 point seat belts I think in this case overhauled my be an overstatement, most likely...

According to the serial number it is a 1989 or 1990, you should look up the MWO numbers to see what they upgraded, the parking brake would be one. EDIT, I was wrong it is a 1986

What NDT said, whoever inspects it will use the serial number so 255807

I would not think so, it is paper

Looks like a good start, nothing I see says 2004, pre 1995 transmission and transfer case, alternator etc. probably a 6.2L unless it got changed, it does not look like it went through RECAP etc. Post a picture of the data plate It also has the early embossed tailgate, not sure when they went...

BTW I have a 10K shaft from AMG that vibrates so spending $450 does not guarantee success ether. I doubt the 10K parts will interchange with the 7K parts, the 10K boots are also different than the 7K

That is where the dipstick tube goes, it looks like it may have just been removed, the oil fill is on the front of the motor

The ones I bought 3-4 years ago are doing fine, a couple of the ones I bought a year or so ago had defective boots that split along the mold seam. These were replaced under warranty, but because I put my boots under more stress than most I rebuilt the replacements with factory boots and have...

You don't need a grounding harness, just clean all of the few grounding points, this was designed by engineers and every device has a return ground path.

I have a RT-246 along with the RT-524, the 246 works pretty well manually buy if you switch into auto the synchronous motors run all the way to the stops. I plan on maybe dropping that one in my 92 HMMWV but those damn Racal VRM-5080s are just so much better of a radio I am torn..

Thanks for the info! I can definitely say it was fitted with a RT-524/246 as the holes for the mount which as you know are not symmetrical so they are easy to spot. I cannot remember looking to see if it had been fitted with an R422 but I have a real nice one coming from Japan. I am so far...

I second what juanprado said, those contacts in the windshield frame cause enough problems without adding more current to them, shame on Federal for even suggesting it!

Phunny looking N :ROFLMAO:

Retiredwarhorses was trying to help you, he has more HMMWV experience than anyone else (on this forum AFAIK) and has changed MANY water pumps. Replacing the water pump without removing the stack is ill advised and removing the stack will also give you the chance to inspect everything. Many have...

That is correct, 27 is 24V power 58 is ground and 28 is the sending unit. Double check the power and ground to the gauge. The sending unit is a "GM 90" so it should ohm out between 0-90 ohms to ground, IIRC 90 ohms is full

There are many TMs available for download here on SS that have the information you need. Basically all old school automotive temp, pressure and fuel gauges operate the same, with the lead open to the sending unit it will read max in one direction and with that lead shorted to ground it will...