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I could not resist exploring my new playground again today, another 100 mi or so. New phone, they keep moving the dang camera around....

Yes I drilled and tapped a hole in both sides of the cross over, ended up using the rear one.

I run a Telex in both trucks, have a lead I can plug into my phone so I can listen to my favorite MP3s Thinking of dumping the D/Cs for some Bose headsets..

Justinn is correct it just uses a spring to hold the gate closed and opens on back pressure. Here is a way to make it adjustable, originally mine was starting to open around 5psi. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/turbo-waste-gate-conversion-to-adjustable.209441/

Have you listed a want in the classifieds?

Well GEP because they are a much improved version of the GM built engines and NA because with maybe 30HP difference between the NA and turbo the extra trouble is just not worth it, the NA requires less maint over time. don't get me wrong they are great engines and better for bragging rights but...

I am sure they are talking about the negative terminal, it goes to the negative shunt mounted on the inside of the battery box, they WARN that if the negative lead fails, has a poor connection or has inadequate wire size you will over-volt the 12V side so the ground is THE most important...

You can do that just fine with a GEP NA, not sure what a rebuild would cost, from what you say it will need boring, new pistons/rings and of course bearings/gaskets, head bolts and likely the heads and IP will need to be gone through. Not sure what you have in the way of takeouts in your area...

REF, did you get my PM?

70A is the 12V output current, not sure how efficient the device is. if it were 100% then the max input would be 35A but of course it cannot be 100% efficient

70A would probably be OK with 10ga wire that short, I would put a 50A there, not likely going to pull that much anyway. (it is correct to size the fuse to the feed wire and assumed amps used), the device is SUPPOSED to protect itself You can run a wire to the run switch but you will still need...

The motor will bolt up to the three speed. If you go with the 4 speed you will have to get it rebuilt (about 2 grand plus another 500 for a diesel torque converter) to add a FWD output shaft (nobody is going to just take it apart and install the shaft) then you will need to buy an aftermarket...

The two stroke Detroits have cam driven injectors and a rack, when you shut the motor down and then return the shutdown control to run the rack goes to wide open. When you start a Detroit the rack is in WOT until the engine reaches whatever the throttle position is set (usually idle) that is...

Just carry a pair of pliers, in the EXTREMELY unlikely event that the engine starts to run away pinch off the return line from the IP and that will kill the engine. If the engine truly ran away it would likely hand-grenade before it would run out of fuel with a cutoff valve anyway so just...

Yes you want to fuse the wire that is turning on and off the power to the Orion, you can tap the wire 29T for switched power to the green connector at the transmission control relay, but you definitely want to fuse it, if it shorts out in or outside of the Orion you don't want it affecting the...

Coug pretty much covered it, not a good idea to look for a civy engine as they are likely all worn out and they never had the GEP engine which was much improved, you are correct that the van (express) had the center mount turbo. If you find your engine is not economically repairable try to...

Those terminals have numbers or letters, they could have done a much better job than "right-hand terminal" I am assuming it is the terminal towards the inside but again they could have referenced the actual terminal designation. We used tons of those style terminals in the SCADA equipment I used...

If you put it in the battery box as shown you could pull switched 24V from the relay for the TCM.

Wired as is it's going to run the batteries down. See the instructions for optional remote on off switch. EDIT, actually it does say you can feed switched 24V to the right side of the remote switch plug so a relay will not be needed, sorry missed that...

I see anti rattle clips for various applications, maybe the pad thing did not turn out to be a good fix. I would see what civilian applications those pads have and see if there are any clips for it.