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YES, very doubtful de-greaser caused this issue though.

I am not familiar with the L5P or the 10 speed. If the 10 speed is longer or bigger (dia) than the 6 speed I would say that would likely be an issue. Other than that you may have to find some earlier components, one thing I had to use on the LMM was a LBZ oil fill tube as the LMM was too high...

I do not understand how you are focusing on the TPS, you are not getting TPS codes but are getting high ratio codes, add that to what you said about not being able to pull in 1st when hot I would suspect a slipping transmission. Have you changed the fluid and filter?

OK now I am totally confused, I just looked up error 87 and it is a high ratio error, nothing to do with the TPS One cause of a high ratio error is a slipping transmission which would be consistent with the transmission getting warm, (this would also seem to be consistent with not pulling in 1st...

Not sure where you got the "over 4.5v" The 5V supply voltage (wire 350) should be 4.9-5.2V Wire 359 is ground. Wire 355 the signal wire should go from about .5-4.5V If the pot was not noisy and just went to 3.whateverV it would not set a code, it would just affect shift points, the TCM would...

When testing an analog input (IE 1-5V etc) I find it much better to use an analog meter (Simpson 260) The TPS is just a variable resistor and all variable resistors, (also called rheostats and potentiometers) can get noisy, this can lead to a failure code. Everyone has heard a volume control on...

Curious, have you tried deoxit on all of the connector pins? With so many different codes I would start to suspect oxidized connector pins. The troubleshooting guide outlines how to test the TPS, no other measurements should be necessary.

IIRC 650-700 RPM, make sure the high idle control under the dash is fully in.

If you can no longer get codes then you might have a failing TCM, complex electronics many times fail after they get warm, can you pull codes when the TCM is cold?

Interesting, I have no experience with these but wonder if they are "heavy duty" enough for the HMMWV, these windows weigh several times the weight of a hotrod flat window. But again I have zero experience or have even seen these used in this application, but if the wiring is right then...

Sounds like you have defective devices or something is not wired correctly, where did you get the doors? are they new?

To further explain, every electrical device on a HMMWV, headlights, tail lights, WW motor, heater, horn etc has a return (ground) wire going back to a couple of centralized grounding points, the body is not used at ALL for grounding of anything on the HMMWV as it came from the factory and also...

What I was trying to say is the return path is as important as the feed path. :)

Are you SURE you are getting full voltage to the motors, where are the doors grounded? the body should never be used as a ground, you must ground to the motor/trans and best would of course be the shunt in the battery box.

If you plan on doing much highway driving most would advise to stay away from the three speed trucks. If all you are going to do is tool around town and off road it does not matter.

That would not be a good idea at all, not only are you over amping the motors and switches, you would be delivering much more torque to the regulator which could easily break something. The mods you need to do are very easy and basic, if you cannot figure it out pay someone to do it for you.

Does not sound like a rod to me, if it is the knock will change dramatically when given a little throttle. If it were a rod and if that is a 6.2L it would not be worth rebuilding anyway..

That is the sight glass, it is the way to monitor PS fluid level.

It looks like the alt is loose, but that "tinny" knock sounds like a collapsed lifter.

The bouncing of the volt meter may be the "after glow" that continues for 2-3 minuets after start up (the glow plugs are turning on and off to keep the temp up in the glow plugs but not burn them out), it does not seem apparent how the volt meter bouncing in time with the knock AND the smoke...