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Welcome to the forum!!

It is hard to tell from your link but it sounds like you are cycling the run switch, if you turn off the run switch you MUST wait 90 seconds before cycling the switch back on or you will fry your glow plugs, that IS in the TMs

It is the fitting that has the nipple for the return hose on top of the IP, remove the hose and unscrew the nipple the check valve is in that nipple. Sometimes crap gets in the valve and ether prevents it from being a check valve or plugs it up, the ball should be glass so you should be able to...

There is a check valve in the return fitting on top of the IP, I would check that first, its main job is to prevent air from entering the IP allowing fuel to drain back to the tank. If only 1 hour causes trouble I would not think it would be a glow plug issue as the engine does not cool off...

Depends on what model HMMWV you have, the civy shafts are 10K, if you have an A2 or ECV etc (12K) they will not work

Wire number 54 should be plugged into the front connector on the IP, it should have 24V when the run switch is in the run position, you should be able to unplug it and when connected and the switch on you should hear a click from the injection pump. Test it with a volt meter while connected, use...

That is pretty cool, I have never seen one like that, the only ones I remember seeing at academy back in the 70s had two metal clips that snapped around the body of the flashlight.

Again if it surges just before it shuts down it is starving for fuel. I have seen injector pumps that are worn enough they have a hard time starting when hot but never one that dies when hot. If it surges just before it dies that is the governor trying to maintain idle when the fuel supply runs...

I spent 4 hours cruising the back-roads of three different counties today, did not get any pictures, I was trying my phone as a "movie" camera, not very stable but my knock off Go Pros have no sound in their protective case, will have to invest in something better, these are some "snaps" from...

Oil pressure switch does not control anything

The TM calls for red, I use red and Nordlock, it does take allot of torque to remove but that has never been a problem, mostly it is just the head locked with the washers. I too use new bolts every time, I have now gone to flanged bolts and the larger dia. Nordlocks just for a little extra grip...

IIRC they are 1/8", I would use stainless so they don't end up looking like the ones in the video. Remember when measuring for the grip range that you include the head unlike a "regular" rivet. Something like this should work...

It sounds like you may have a bad injector, try breaking each line loose at idle and see in they all create the same change in idle sound/rpm, in the first video I can hear the turbo spool up so that would not be my first assumption. How about the intake filter?

The bystander behind the door looks nervous :LOL:

If it is the starter you would likely be better off having a starter shop rebuild it. You need to pull the flywheel cover and see what is going on. Also numbers 2920-01-168-7891 and MFY-6701UT come up, as far as I know all HMMWV starters are interchangeable

Welcome to the forum! Describe what issues you are having. The number I have is 2920-01-507-7423

I used Taylor many decades ago on my Unimogs, M422A1 and other great folks, at least back then.

Well the weather guessers are saying rain tomorrow for our area so I decided to do Memorial Day today down on the beach. NOW things are looking better, much better than the last few years, I mean it was packed. Here is the view from a Hotel camera about 8 miles south of Port Aransas, it shows...

:)

Also remember you will need the correct flush style rivets