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I measured little less...: 69.75" max. width, and 32.2" cab tub height at the same point) G.

:-) ..... or let people do a little reading, here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/6459-if-you-own-m35-you-need-5.html I'm sure we could get some more insight here from newcomers.... and more fun, too!:razz: G.

Here you go..... BTW, these bearing numbers are universal and good for any manufacturer/brand. G.

I have had bows with the wooden staves that go all the way down into the racks, to the floor of the bed. They tend to get stuck or get rotten. Then the short metal ones which have their own problems... Pics show dims. and also giving some ideas for replacement/improvement... G.

Now that's an interesting Q....! ARE they INTERCHANGEABLE...?????, except maybe for the drive clutch part mounted to the splined rear end of the input shaft. Or are both T-case's input shafts even built identical at that end??? (speaking of 2.5 vs 5ton TC- PTOs, obviously) G.

......doesn't look bad to me.... Pull TR back out of knuckle, clean & lube thread and work nut on and of while holding stud with vice-grips. Clean cone and eye surfaces from dirt and grease, re-install DRY (some chalk on both surfaces also helps), eventually also push upwards using a small...

Not through the drum itself....! G.

Ah, OK. Not sure if yours has U-joint yokes directly mounted to both shaft ends. If so, converting the driveshaft to a flanged yoke on one end shouldn't be a problem. Also, the shaft will have a splined slip yoke that should be easy to disconnect...? G.

See some here.... "Disconnecting the dump pump side...." ??? You mean, removing that rear output accessory drive and converting to a winch-only unit? G.

This is it: 20x11" drop center, MPT style, tubeless One piece! I have mounted 14.5s using std tire irons but it's better done with a machine. G.

I would take the 12.00R20 tubes. G.

Yes, converted but IF it has the double output PTO + pump and all hydraulics + hoist..... AND it all works..... that alone is well worth $1000. Then you could get the whole rest of a truck (except maybe the missing inner WS) for $500...! To bad I didn't know about this a month earlier... G.

Try this place: http://www.odcloth.com/hardware/hardwareinfo.html G.

:ditto: Not really a great idea IMHO. :???: Using that other narrow lockring (or a stock one, cut) leaves a wide, deep gap just where the tire bead comes to seat! Wonder how that section of the bead will withstand un-mounting, later on... G.

A2 wheels: 7.5"wide A3 wheels: 11" wide G.

Yes, the 12R22.5 G177 Goodyear, for example. The catalogs show them with 43.7" O.D. and 20.5" loaded radius. G.

Speaking of replacing 12.00-20 NDTs I think the closest in O.D. would be a 11.00R20 radial or a 14.5R20 (= 365/85R20). Loaded radius might be a tad smaller for the radials, at equal TP. Next bigger size are 12.00R20s, but that would be about +1" compared to the the original NDT's. I see no...

Not intending to rain into your option 1- parade but.... don't forget that the front brake drum center plate is also held in place by the original studs, so that had to be addressed too. G.

Ahh OK.... Hmmm.... not so sure about those. I remember trying to weld on one, only once... at least that one reacted more like if it was cast iron! (which I don't think it is...) G.

That's correct. Also, the 5ton shaft would need to be shortened, for the same reason. Again, it all depends on what parts can be found to build a relatively small swing diameter U-joint, but strong enough to turn a pump probably demanding 15-20Hp. G.