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Agreed, Bjorn. That's why I prefer to do some "destructive" testing with the very same parts in question: for example, cut all but a small "bridge" on that pitman arm or draglink to be modded and bend to break, see what happens, how it looks like. Then (MIG)weld a small portion, break off back...
No, that ball came off of the steering arm, not pitman arm...
Anyways, you can see now that neither one has its shank "threaded into the arm".
Both arms take the same size std. cone and in that picture you found, I was trying to show that it is easy to replace the whole OEM draglink and balls...
LOL.... never thought about it. Nothing magical, it's just my surname plus the "g" from Gerhard...:wink:
Ringeltaube is a wild dove species very common in European woods. Apparently back in the 15th century some old German decided to adopt this as his surname, who knows...
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Good for you if it worked well...
I say that those are cheap copies at best, for many reasons (...long list, not for this thread)!
(That if all repro WS currently available from US-vendors come from the same factory, of course!)
Hopefully other parts are made much better, for what...
Hold on for a minute...
OK, it's a 1/2" OD.
(Was looking for a possible donor bearing# but couldn't find one that quick.)
Of course, I could send you that exact"spare part" per mail... LOL
G.
:ditto:
It might have come off of an M35 but who knows what tranny it had....:???:
The PTO pictured above will never mount to a M35 3052 or 3053 gear box, that's for sure!
See how the input gear looks like on a stock M35 tranny PTO, below...
G.
Good luck!!
I tried that about two years ago, also wanting to know more about how many of their parts would interchange with US-made parts. They responded promptly - in correct English... and probably thinking I was a potential buyer representing our government...:smile: - not much info but...
Not so; the lower 4 are responsible for keeping the spring ends inside their perches, longitudinally, regardless of twist. Combined with the upper two they also control axle tilt/ axle wrap, to maintain the pinion shafts in horizontal position and a nearly constant distance between the two...
The material of the old style rods (= round section) sure IS - the newer (I-beam style) SHOULD BE - perfectly weldable with MIG or adecuate stick.
Personally I've only built a set of the old ones, each extended 2" to be able to run 14.00s. Once painted one could hardly tell where the weld...
I may add that even in the condition described above it is very unlikely that a wheel cylinder or MC suffers a sudden "catastrophic" failure without any "warning signs"... most probably it will start leaking long before that.
BUT watch for rotten flexhoses and corroded brake tubing waiting to...
All here (plus tons of info if you do a search for other similar threads): http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/15916-power-steering-deuce-4.html
G.
Unless I missed something you never told us how you corrected what is shown in your post #4....?
It does take that spacer/ (thrust)washer (#27 in my post#6) to keep everything in correct position! Otherwise the companion flange deflector shield could now be interfering with the housing, the...
...well, it wasn't a new one but working properly at least...
Shown below is the complete shift assembly with the lever and fork firmly in place, laid on level ground. I was trying to give a kind of reference for the relative position of both parts mounted to the shaft... Strangely the two...
It might very well be twisted!
Two of my parts winches have that rod twisted off, broken inside the housing.
Will pull a new one tomorrow to see how it looks like....
G.
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