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.......forget it, that just won't work... and also why do you want a flap at all if going tubeless....! In order to completely seal the ring to the wheel and also the tire bead where the gap is I would try mounting the parts with plenty of (black) PU adhesive/sealant like sikaflex 221 or...

- Bracket bolts (2): 7/16"-20 x L=7/8" - Alignment tool: 3/4" for pilot bushing x 1 7/32" (clutch disk int. spline diam.) - PTO to tranny: one thick gasket (+/-1mm) plus 587 Loctite (blue RTV), both faces. G.

....just a little bit more patience and some synthetic grease (more tacky) if available. The rollers have to be "glued" into the input shaft, first. If they are not excessively worn they will hold each other in place (only can slide out). Try again, it IS doable and has been done x-many times! G.

Here's some more..... G.

Hmmmm...... tall, wide radials, a tall & heavy box plus liftgate, all that resulting in a relatively high CG ......... all playing against stability/drivability/fun to drive and safety of course.....! Yes, probably not sufficient caster and also - did you check the toe-in? Wide radials have...

Nope. Check the window regulator for bent or twisted arms. Very little out of shape, it affects correct window position a lot. G.

For some reason the dog clutch halves aren't completely disengaging which is especially noticeable when they spin at different speeds relative to each other during a turn. Could be a broken return spring, loose shift fork, sticking piston, etc. This might be helpful reading, somewhat...

1/8" npt

Why electronics and complications? A typical International school bus Navistar IDI 7.3 N/A makes 170hp @ 3000 and better torque than any of the Deuce Multifuels, at least. I think it would be a nice diesel-only powerplant option, for what they cost. The only problem I recall to maintain the...

Glad you fixed it. If after a short highway driving that hub gets only a little warmer, I would leave it as is. And yes it will "wear in"and shortly after that....... it will be "worn out" and leaking again .......! Why so? Well, just take a closer look at the OEM seal's construction and...

.... and I beg to disagree....! 1) if the reverse sprag really stayed engaged 3rdmdqm wouldn't be able to move more than a few feet before something was gone south. And if so he would have noticed it immediately or later while testing the sprag adjustment. 2) by default the front sprag is the...

Dito what FMJ and M16ty said. Clean/ inspect all, including the rubber boots, BEFORE assembling the outer ends. You might want to replace the inner housing oil seals for which you need to pull the axle shafts. Pinion bearings and other parts may already be damaged from corrosion - no acid in...

OK, it may help you and others to also check the -P manuals often; even if illustrations are mostly very rough the relative position and description of part#s usually "takes you there"....;) In this case: TM 9-2320-209-34P, fig. 86 or TM 9-2320-361-34P, fig. 110 G.

That IS normal! Now my Q. (also out of curiosity....): why do people ignore TMs......:!::?: That is NOT normal, for some of us at least...:? G.

I would jack up one front wheel and check for correct sprag adjustment and front axle operation (see: View topic - Sprag Adjustment :: Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite) If all appears normal remove front propeller shaft and do a short test drive, including sharp turns; best if it...

... and remember: it can be done with the transmission still in place! G.

The diagram shows the number of teeth of each gear, so you can do a little math yourself easily... For each full turn of the rear output shaft the front only turns .926 of one revolution. That is the same as saying the rears have to be slipping 8% to start getting any traction from the front...

Yes, those chips come from the PTO input gear (right cut helix) or use the one from your own PTO...? G.

Maybe this one....? G.

Try this one: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2910-226-34.pdf G.