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Agreed Bjorn, but not as difficult to do as one would suppose. Actually it takes more patience to start - carefully pry up - open the rim evenly to avoid cracking; not even 360º all around, just enough for the parts to come apart. The ring holding lens and gasket to the body is made of soft...
;-) The original Q. was IF they can be opened W/O destruction....
Now to answer your Q.: ......NOT worth it if those replacements were NOS but - YES, if we are considering the cheap chinchulin-repros that are being offered as aftermarket! I bet that a restored 50-year old SW tachometer will...
I've found some (old used ones) out of balance: slightly, but enough to cause important vibration at higher speeds.
So how does your replacement drum do? (... after also removing all that dirt and grease inside the brake guard, obviously...!?)
G.
That bend would eventually cause a toe-out condition but doesn't quiet explain the pulling-to-left problem to me.
Try to get it back straight cold, using a press and some V-blocks; shouldn't be difficult at all. The tube is made of low carbon steel, even so I would avoid heating.
Check toe-in...
Yes, they can be opened, lens polished and most can be restored to like-new condition! ... with some practice and if you have the time, a small press and if you can fab the molds(dies) to safely hold & crimp the parts back together. Keep in mind, these gauges all come completely sealed against...
:ditto:
Vaughn, besides all mentioned also make sure that the slip joint of the intermediate steering shaft (in between gear and column) isn't sticking. It must be able to freely extend/contract 1/2" minimum, to compensate for any cab to chassis movement and normal operation of the control...
:confused: Not exactly what the book shows (TM9-2320-386-24P, fig. 144) ....
Take a look here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/44742-m35a3-pto.html
G.
First I would pull the drain plug and check if the oil still looks clear or cloudy/ dark, what the magnet is holding, ...
Don't know about the 5ton T-case, but you might get some ideas of how to check for wear, here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/14890-slipping-out-high-3.html
G.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/10905-airpack-rebuild-add-pics-4-09-a-2.html
TM9-2320-209-34-2-1: http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=98
G.
I know...., welding up that groove is kind of "tempting" but your weak spot so to speak won't be the weld seam in itself but the area adjacent to it. More or less you create an abrupt change of section width exactly where most of the stress & fatigue of the center disk would be expected. On some...
Here we go: see the precision regulator SMC IR1010 here http://www.smcworld.com/2008/e/webcatalog/docs/frl/frregulator/IR.pdf#page=1
I choose that model over the IR1000 for a higher flow rate in case of leak. It still works pretty accurate at 2psi.
All the tubing is 1/4" nylon. Fittings for...
:-o Hmmmm ..... I think one should NOT weld them on the inside (backside) in this case .... to retain at least some flexibility and reduce residual tensions, IMHO. Also the one seam on the outside surely does cover the full thickness of the center disk if done right. Are you using MIG?
Looks...
Sorry if this all created some confusion.... it is that sometimes we were comparing distance between hub mounting surfaces i.e. after flipping rear hubs...., then we speak about track width which is the distance between wheel/tire centerlines (like in my last diagram)
See dimensions below and...
They can be worse than that regarding both, lateral and radially...!
Now, getting them true within 3/32" is not an easy task but you should be able to reduce at least the wobble of your new creations to almost cero.
BTW, ....you did check that your testing hub turns perfectly true, didn't you...
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