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You prolly found this already... if not see parts list and diagram below:

Let's be realistic here.... what should we expect as a normal" maximum? 50 inches of water? That is having the transmission tunnel already under water, running on 43" tires. The internal pressure needed at axle height or inside the diffs to compensate for this is little over 1psi, not more...

Speaking of med. sized truck 5.9 BT6s for (military) application I have seen a few of the low-outputs, (first generation, rotary pump, 97KW and 108KW vesions) coming from factory with the SAE#3 pattern bell-housing. And YES, the big brothers all are SAE#2. Jones, just to remind you: the adapter...

9.6" and 8º, respectively. Scrub radius in your case should be around 2 3/4" G.

I was curious about the final relative position, front wheels to fenders and rears to bed... after welding the center to the outer edge of the rim, backspace would be reduced from original 10.5" down to 6". Not that bad... G.

Yes, almost... see dimensions below. G.

Take a look here: M35 Series Everything Else Yes. And even for a non-turbo MF it would be wise to follow these instructions. Yes.... for the gasser M35, only. G.

Good Q., wish I knew the exact specs...! :? Store doesn't know..., hopefully their supplier does.... will try to find out anyways and let you all know! G.

Probably instantly, yes!... and according to that chart (post #29) even the 185Hp version is twice the torque of a stock LDT...!:shock:

Thanks to Kenny I have the real ones to compare against all other options...;-) G.

Vaughn, here is some discussion about caster adjustment: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?16875-if-you-have-hyd-power-steering-read.html Regarding toe-in I recommend zero (0º) for wider radials, if that's your case... G.

Here is one Deuce with 12.00R20 XML's on M34-wheels... G.

Instead of using plywood I have done this with Eucaliptus ("Eucaliptus-Grandis", most common wood here, very resistant long fibers, lightweight): 5 strips cut from a solid beam, each 3/16" thick, 2 3/8" wide, 6'4" long, glued together with industrial grade PU adhesive. G.

Pardon........if coolant was completely drained at least the heads WILL get "warm" relatively fast...... and expand differently.... Why take a risk if the solution is so easy and inexpensive?:? G.

Connect (short cut) both radiator hoses temporarily, fill it with water as much as possible and drive 10 miles or more if you had to. G.

TM 9-2910-226-34, table 3-12 / 3-13 shows all the numbers of all IP parts. For IP body / IP head, model# & application you might check out the charts posted here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/13207-ip-problem-experts-2.html G.

Yes, somehow you missed to re-install that washer... :? (see diagram, #27) Plenty of lube and patience...!:razz: Seriously, a bit of good synthetic, water resistant grease OUTSIDE the seal will also help prevent corrosion of the companion flange seal surface. G.

WOW! That is FAST! What's the trick....? - or do you not count the time to get it out and back in place again...? :rolleyes: G.

Even if you had easy access to DOT5...... AND if you never would drive through water over the axles ....AND, AND ..... there is no guaranty that the brake fluid INSIDE the cups will keep the piston completely lubed all around since travel is minimal when brake shoes are correctly adjusted ...

Gaskets - what for? With all the good gasket maker stuff out there.... who needs gaskets? :smile: (Loctite 518 (anaerobic) and RTV, blue 587 are just good examples...) Yes, to re-use them clean all surfaces carefully with paint thinner, eventually use 600-grit sand paper to help remove rust and...