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Like I said...I think I found, won't know till I get a pic from the supplier...and If the tool is the correct length. so instead of posting possible faulty info...let me wait till I get them and see if they work. Then I can share away...

Still getting CTIS overspeed lamp on...at all speeds above 30mph. repalced the speed sensor...speedo is acting weird too, I think it's more accurate now, is is possible the CTIS controller is bad?

Having searched prior to posting, I found the caps...and I think the tools...so thank guys.

I'm trying to find repalcement release tools and plastic caps for my m1078, they are missing, napa has some but not in stock, anyone know which,ones or where to get correct replacements?

My pins are stowed, the knob pushed in and locked since I got it, I drove it today with it deflated...the cab was all overs the place it seemed. I pulled over and infated them, rides much nicer on the road...IMO. So I'm going to leave them inflated.

It's no longer leaking cuz all the gear oil is gone...LOL reminds me of when a news reporter came on Ch47 I was on and stated "wow, look at all those leaks on the floor" my reply was "you better hope those leaks don't stop"

you will surely regret removing those run flats...while a PITA I know, cuz i jhabe to install them for my cusotmers...but several have thanked me later! One in particular was on the Rubicon, shredded a tire, had to drive a mile till he found anything flat enough to change to the spare....now...

The bottom Piece is half of a steering column MWO, the 2 plates are backing plates for items requiring additional support so as not to tear the body of the truck and provide additional structural support...for items such as antenae brackets, troop seats etc...

hose it all down with brake cleaner...get it clean, run the truck and look again to isolate where it coming from. ive seen many times that a hose clamp is loose....and I mean many times.

The steering gear can be had at local stores, they are the same box as any hummer H1 from 1992-2004. i always use 1998 as a model year to cross ref.

Drmo does not set the demil code...its set by govt/DLA. This is nothing new folks, been going on as long as armys have exsisted...

Thats a 6k plate...milemarker requires its own plate.

99 and even early 2000 H1's had cracking issues...I've replaced 3 in my shop is about a year. Im told AMG used up what they,had in stock till exhausted....my 98 got a new engine in 99, it's a GM block.

All of the above, as well as injector drain back hoses...there can be no air in the system or you will have issues. I had a trauck that had a finger loose drain hose connection...no fluid leak, but truck had rough idle issues, tightened clamp, fixed problem.

Look at the rear of the block at the tach drive emboss, take a pic and post...6.2 was also embossed on the block near the front right head. 6.2 and 6.5 was not prone to cracking...it was the 6.5 turbo from GM, fixed by GEP after bought the plant. now, 6.2 and 6.5's have there own issues...as all...

You need to change out the upper spur gear to 12k so the larger splined end will fit. they are all over ebay for sale.

It's quite simple folks....one pos lead to the 24v pos side of the front battery, one to the rear 12v pos battery side, and ground. now the unit has both 12 and 24volts to be supplied out on its water proof fused connections. my only recommendation is to run a grounding strip to your radio tray...

No, that's what I said to do as well....the cost involved very well may make you rethink changing it over. H1 parts are in short supply and pricey...Especially body parts and interior pieces. done right, you can recoup a lot of your costs through the sale of the old parts. post an add in the...

Here is a few items on this unit

You don't need the solar panel...but an imbalance would still occur on the 12v side...that's why I said to upgrade the Gen to 200amp with the 14v supply to go to the rear battery. The pulse tech will give you fused 12 and 24v taps for various components. The solar panel is not a charger. It's...