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What's the part number of the hydrobooster your ordering? There are 10k and 12k Boosters...the firewall is not where the problem is, it's the width of the studs for the Master cyl...they are farther apart on a 12k booster. the 10k's are harder to find...so I would go with 12k and the squared off...

Never use starting fluid on these motors....now, no idea what your buddy did, but it ain't important. troubleshooting is required to determine if the glow plug system is operable....you have not told us enough about symtoms except it won't start. 1.when you turn the start switch to Run, what...

Lower balljoints are 3/8, the newer ones are 7/16 upper balljoints are 5/16, newer type are 3/8 you can use the newer balljoints on the old control arms, but you have to drill out the holes. You will also need to drill out the upper backing plate for the upper balljoint. always use Grade C cap...

There are no civ crosses I have ever come across for that filter...just order an OEM from one of the suppliers.

Most likely the TDM...but is your truck truly at temp to turn on? Don't rely on the gauge...also, it does not turn on at 200, most of the time it's 215...but again, the gauges are highly inaccurate. if your in a cold climate, it may never turn on. also could be the thermostatic switch in the...

Just heat them up with a blow torch...use a crowbar and small sledge hammer to make them right. your not going to be sling loading from a helicopter anytime soon.

More then likely it's the spindle seal...the upper halfshaft seals seep, they don't really leak, the outer spindle seal is where the real fluid is and it gets thrown all over the rim. But I replace both when I replace the spindle seal, as well as new spindle nut keyed washer. Have at times seen...

The quick disconnects can leak...

The 6.5 was/is the standard replacement for the 6.2, that being said, most everything will swap over...the only real area you need to concentrate on are the Injector pump, lines and injectors...the TM shows by year what pump, as well as the lines and injectors....as has been mentioned, the lines...

My 1078 still flashes above 30mph as well....I have replaced the speed sensor, that did make my speedo accurate within 1-3mph....before that, it was way off and jumped all over the place. But if I ever get time, it would be nice to get that lamp to stop flashing.

The newer type MWO spindle nut lock washers are just fine...when done right. The clamp nut is PITA. I mod a lot of H1's in the shop with military spindle nut lock washers.

If the EESS is full of water, I doubt it had anything to do with that rain you were in...it was probably already there from sitting in storage...there is a foam donut that is supposed to be used on the EESS boxes, it goes on the top plug between the box and the body, this donuts prevents water...

Don't worry Houston...I will make it a point not to reply to any of your posts for fear of upsetting you with an acronym...and I'm quite sure others may very well feel the same. I guess we should all stop using acronyms like fedex, IRS, FBI, DLA, CIA, DODAC,UPS, TACOM, GOV Liq, GP...all so we...

post away...this is not kindergarten, I thought we were all men. I See this same crap in my unit...please go do your Job, please get your work done...uhh, not me...17yrs army didn't teach me to say please, it taught me to get the Job done, without questioning.....things just ain't what they used...

im certainly not going to spend the time out of my work day to explain every acronym used here or in the military. when I'm learning a new truck..M939's or M107x trucks...I have to figure out the same problem from a more knowledgable person...so I do research. I though my sticky did a pretty...

Cute dog...lol, I have a great sense of humor, I just hate beating dead horses...this one is just bones. but here goes....throw that box and the GPC in the trash can...you might not want to spend the money, but your truck is unreliable with out a reliable starting system...it's not a matter of...

Hey Chief, they are plenty happy when they are coming home in a C17...from one senior enlisted to another, thanks for your service. everything you said is spot on...

No, the condensor is only held in by 2 bolts in front 3 in the middle and a bracket in the rear secured by 2 bolts...all are 1/4-20. The fact that's it's bolted to the exhaust adds a lot of rigity...remember, the correct way to mount that pipe is the use the rubber isolators that go in the 2...

The newer trucks don't use the bracket, there is just a backing plate...this is because the left fender has an A/C condensor in the fender....I'm adding factory M1151 Ac to an M998 in the shop right now. the other trucks I have done have had the factory M11XX AC fenders and the plate is held in...

Why not just buy a Hummer H1....a set of H1 doors will set you back a pretty penny.