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Here is the kit....Hs can fail in more then one way...you got lucky as you had that geared hub end...I like that as a better option...you just need these shorter bolts to complete your kit... http://www.bluehummer.com/lihoplkit.html

How did you secure the brake rotor once you removed it from the diff output flange? in the hummer H1 community, they make a kit, it allows for the removal of the broken shaft, an insert like your broken end you left in the geared hub for the upper spur gear, shorter metric bolts to secure the...

not entirely uncommon....I would source a new light switch and have it ready.

We have a fisher house on Travis AFB, they do great work for a noble cause.

I was the Brigades primary weapons instructor "10yrs" for all small arms...as well as 5yrs in a Maint FSB as a Weapons repairer. Yes....I have seen AD's....just none involving vehicles where these supposed soldiers and marines and shooting holes in Hmmwv floors, as either AD or intentional...

You don't want to shoot a 5.56 through a .223 labeled barrel....you can shoot .223 through 556, not the other way around. and yes, I know .223 is for conversations purposes the same...and referred to as such.

you have to be kidding me right? Someone differs in opinion and you call it public embarrassment? i have provided you facts based on many years of experience....no intent to embarrass. this must be the new Generation...

have you ever carried an M4 or M16 in a mil vehicle? It's not muzzle down....that's only on Helicopters. that hole size is much larger then 5.56, more like 7.62mm. FYI....the military does not use .223 looks like the same spot all the trucks I have ever seen come through my shop...if you will...

For some odd reason, everyone thinks every hole found in a HMMWV floor came from a 556 round...folks...unless you were there for the AD, I highly doubt it was an AD. I heard the same for every marine Corp HMMWV from the auctions...it's to let water out of the truck in the floor boards. the early...

I have a better idea....find and fix the injector. Don't bother with some miracle that may come out of a can. its quite simple to find a sticky injector....just start the truck and start cracking lines till the noise goes away. you can also pull all of them and send them out to a shop,and have...

No idea what your trying to accomplish...what's it got to do with s sticky injector?

The inner brackets are very cheap for a pair, the 2 outer while a little for expensive are also cheap...you can use right or lefts...makes no diff, the bracket can be flipped. The inners are the same, the shims can be just washers. so maybe 125.00 total for all 4 brackets...

your running a 100 or 200amp GEN....so,your fine. You didn't state what GEN you had, that's why I asked. you are more the exception to the rule. The 60amp is in 95% of the GP trucks, so they would take 2 and 2 of the belts.

Are they hey plug and play? Any mods other then the bracket?

Check your high low beam foot switch...head lights won't work if'its bad or missing altogether...I had a truck that had the low beam side not plugged in, high beams worked fine....

Here is an even easier way...take the belt to napa and they will measure it. also, your qty's on Belts looks incorrect...its 2ea, not 3 and 1. What generator are you running?

You are correct....the TPS is slotted like a screwdriver tip. How are you getting crank position sensor ? Or does it need one? The military setup requires it.

My bad....I didn't even look at the OP date...my apologies

my reply was not to you....it was the OP....the thread you hijacked.

Looking at the pic, it appears to be similar to a HMMWV fan clutch, need hyd or air pressure to disengage to turn it to line up the bolt holes to remove or install. Locktite is a must...never had one come off a HMMWV though. will have to check that bugger...