Search results

Pump would be struggling, pumping very slow if at all.

When the air hydraulic pump is working hard, it slows way down. If it is just pumping merrily away and nothing is happening, the pump is bypassing internally. Put a gauge on it and verfy.

Boy am I missing GL. At loadout " hey, you still have room on your trailer, do you need some of those???"

Dribbles means pump needs rebuilt.

Nice clean unit, I bet zero rust.

Search "latch" in the FMTV forum for a thread I wrote on fixing the cab latch leak. On the air hydraulic pump, I would start by overhauling it, likely has bad o rings. I wrote a thread on that too, search SPX.

Oh no. If the transfer was engaged, the hydramatic is gonna be hurt bad. Suggest pull the pan and take a look. The consensus here over the years seems to be nobody is really happy with repowers of these trucks.

These hydraulic systems can be tricky to repair. I would find a hydraulic shop that works on stinger cranes and bucket trucks. They will be able to fix it fast. Here in Houston it's South Coast Hydraulics.

Yay!! Glad you did not give up. I have been having excellent luck using cold galvanizing spray paint on areas that will not need to be welded, and then to cover welds. Really controls rust well!

Welcome. The truck chassis is a GMC model CCKW 353, 2 1/2 ton 6x6. It could be a 1943,44, or 45. The Corps of Engineers used those whenever 185 cfm of compressed air was needed. I would attempt to sell it as is, running ads on ebay, Hemmings motor news, here, G503 website. It will be...

Fill the air system from the front emergency glad hand so you can use the air driven pump again.

Welcome. Get a sample of Rapco's 34052 and see if you like it. Not much rhyme or reason to USMC markings. Very unit specific. Generally yellow lettering.

Sounds like an air leak. Super bad for injection system.

Same wheel as M101 trailer or M37 Dodge. There are wheels made for that trailer that are for tubeless tires.

Use search term "refuses" in the FMTV forum for a discussion on what is located there. Thread started by NDT.

Did you try pressurizing the fuel tank like the HEMMTs.

I thought I knew a lot about flood rescue work having worked TS Claudette as a teenager in a M37 Dodge for Galveston County Civil Defense. Some random thoughts: Harvey was a humbling experience that did not go well for a lot of agencies. I recall meeting with our command staff (FD)on August...

I had this issue on a CUCV. You will need to have someone press the button to cause the fault condition while you probe around with a voltmeter to see where you are loosing the voltage. In my case, a crimped on cable end had corroded between the cable and terminal, and would only conduct power...

If you can crimp the tubes, you do not have to remove the radiator. Eastern Surplus lists having the clutch.

Google lists 3 rad shops in Ventura: Lee's 805-648-6939, Jessie's 805-652-2193, Ventura Rad 805-643-4880. I would try to crimp the damaged tubes to stop the leak. You can then continue on without the hose to a Napa at 4547 Telephone road and obtain hose and fittings to make a new hose assy...