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If they are still there when he goes to pick it up. You know how stuff on GL lots tends to "walk off" if it isn't nailed down.

Ok. I guess you've got a point. :-D

Come on now! If your're going to "pimp" the shifter atleast use a hand gernade :-D.

I think I've got a few hinges laying around in my stack of stuff. Do you need both halfs or just one? I've always had good luck removing pins by heating the hinges with a torch. I had some rusty one and some I had to heat untill red but I've never had one that wouldn't come apart.

OK. Sorry for the misunderstanding :oops:. I thought about what you're talking about too but durring the design work it kind of disappeared in order to keep cost down. If you've ever tried to hook up a towbar by yourself I can see where you're comming from. I'll look into it some more to see if...

Ditto what everybody else has said. A deuce will make the 200 mile trip no problem but the one you buy may not.

That is your air governor. What part of the governor is the air leaking out of? Is it leaking out of a fitting or is it leaking out of the cover where the adjusting screw is? If it's leaking from the adjusting screw just take it off and carry it to the local NAPA or other truck parts store...

I used some stuff called dura-glass (I think) on some rust holes in a CUCV hood. It's like bondo but has fiberglass in it and is supposed to hold up better than bondo. This stuff is what a body man told me to use and I was well pleased with the finished product.

I don't know if I can make it but I'm going to try. If I do I'll bring some towbars.

Yes, you are right about the hole not being in the center of the first one. That's the way the military towbar is made and I patterned it after that . Don't know why the military one is made that way. The legs are the same length from the center of the lunette to the end where the feet attach so...

I like my dropside but the tailgate latches are kind of a pain compared to a standard bed though.

I've got some good people and I'm going to need them when things pick back up so I'm trying to hang on to them if I can. Alot of our business is tied to the auto industry and building industry. That's what's killing us right now.

$350 includes the feet to fit a deuce. I haven't done the design work for the CUCV feet yet but it shouldn't be too much trouble. They should run $130 for a set of feet. I'm really not making any profit on these things. By the time I pay the cutter, buy material, and pay my welder I'm just...

I've seen rocks as big a bowling balls get hung between the duals and come out when up to speed. You won't have to worry about that with singles though.

I may start building towbars. Here's the thread that tells about them. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/31268-built-me-towbar.html

root pass with 6010 (which is a deep penetrating rod) and cap with 7018. You're right about 6013 though. 6013 is mainly used to weld thin stuff.

Does your truck have a air shift t-case? Reason I ask this is you don't want to hook up a truck with a sprag case up to a dyno. Bad things will happen :shock:. You could still put a tandem truck on the dyno, just pull the axles in one of the rears or remove the driveshaft between the two.

All welds are welded with stick.

Well I've finally made some progress on my towbar manufacuring. I've built another prototype with waterjet cut pieces and a beefed up lunette. The lunette is made from 3/4" plate and renforced with two 3/8" rings which gives a total thickness of 1 1/2". I've already invested several dollars in...

Here's a thread where jwaller talks about his setup, intercoolers, and such. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/18849-how-much-boost.html?highlight=water+injection