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Try turning on your aftermarket lights and then measure the voltage at the starter connection. If it's now zero, you have a battery cable ring terminal connection that is internally corroded between the terminal and the copper cable and not allowing big power through. It's a bit of a goose...

Next time coming out of the pit get on the throttle 100% at the highest gear you can and see what happens. Should be at max HP at that point. I don't need to tell you that the cause of this knock will soon make itself known if you keep driving the truck.

Now I am thinking the knock is related to the effort the engine is putting out. I have a boost gauge on mine and little if any boost is developed until gears 13-16. Sounds like you have an engine rod? knock whenever the 400 is putting out 200+ horses. Drive the truck up a very steep hill...

Here is my bone stock tired ex-AT&T 3500 turbo 6.5 4x4 with 4L80E at 22,000 GCWR. Roars up steep hills at 65 mph, flats at 70+. Power and fuel economy of this engine is beyond what I ever imagined.

I have a 915 and 916 with the 7155 but neither has this issue. Maybe I can help with narrowing down which component. So you can be in 13th at say 30 mph, go from float to full throttle, no noise. Shift to 14th, say 35 mph, full throttle, "knock-knock-knock", release throttle, no noise? Is it...

Oh yes, that is an interesting combination of parts there. You are supposed to have left and right split bumpers, winch to bumper brackets 2 ea, the upper winch spacer bracket should be a sheet metal part, the clutch lever is home made, lifting shackle pins are wrong, and you are missing the...

It should fit snug with minimal pulling or stretching. A 50 year old NOS top may have shrunk. If it's a new repro, send it back.

RWH will shoot me but yes it can be done, I put the viscous clutch on mine a very long time ago because I hated having the crap scared out of me every time the hydraulic clutch came on. Use the H1 fan, and the clutch from a mid 90s Chevy 1 ton. You also have to grind the protrusion on the...

And we wonder why the NP218 transfer case which did fine from 1985 until the Iraq war failed in almost every HMMWV.

If your shop van had been outfitted as a shop, there would have been two rows of workbenches which would rest on those strips. Removing them should be no prob.

For the Caiman II with the independent suspension? We have looked everywhere for these ETMs.

Current design OEM bed. Changed around 2005.

The 2 man curtain is the full width of the B pillar from top to bottom. The 4 man curtain is the full width of the C pillar, then narrows to fit in the area between the rear sponsons. Most 4 man trucks do not have the narrow divider.

You're the guy from the "battery connection" thread. I asked you in post 3 of that thread why those wires were not connected. For the future, if you disconnect wires hapazardly, expect things not to work anymore.

Yikes if your voltmeter is pegged to the right, the alternator's internal regulator is shot. Disconnect the excite wire before you smoke your start box! These 60 amp alternators are proving to be quite unreliable and typically take the start box out when they fail high unregulated volts. Most...

It should be in phase, being out of phase is why it's worn out. I would remove it and fix the clocking issue and then measure.

I'm no expert but I believe that is a Viet Nam era ALICE butt pack. The suspenders attach to it I think. It clips to the web belt. Edit: Not ALICE system.

Good luck. I tried to pull those apart by hooking one end to a 22B Bucyrus crane and the other end to a D-7 dozer with a cable. Broke the eye off.

Welcome. Try reading this: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?164136-4l80-Troubleshooting-guide&highlight=

Welcome Fireman. I run mine for recoveries from time to time. They are a nice ride but the Hendrickson suspension will beat you to death. Usually takes me a day of rest after 12 hours in the cab. Your results may vary . . .