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I don't think it is a big deal, as it is not under pressure which would be why you need the crimped on fittings as long as the fuel doesn't eat the hose, and it wont, it will be fine. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Google brought up 4 different ones in blue, sorry no black. I don't use the parker I use Goodyear hose. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yeah but it's going to be after the new year before I can get them to you Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I think if you use both it will be super stiff and should fit think I might do this to my A2's also. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

These are what I have seen on almost every truck we have had, on all positions Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ding ding ding! We have a winner! Never have noticed that type mount before. Dude your mounts are not the same as all the rest I have seen. And they don't look like the would stop the problem, you need the newer mounts. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Okay great write-up, but couldn't you use the behind the cab mount for any of the 939 series? And is there that much difference between the tractor and cargo side mounts? Yes I see the hose length differences but I would probably make new hoses because as was said earlier the stock setup hangs...

Crimped on or push-lok are both going to be a good setup and I have seen both on stock trucks I believe the military went to the push-lok for easier field repair and that is why I also recommend them. But they both will give approximately the same service life but the push-lok is cheaper over...

Ask for 836-8-BLK this should get you a black hose that is rated for diesel fuel and the type 82 fittings Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It is not regular fuel hose, it is high pressure fuel hose made for push lock fittings, regardless of fittings regular fuel hose will collapse and not work properly because of the draw through system the vacuum will cause the soft line to fail. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yeah I figured that was what grendel was saying but I wanted him to answer hopefully with his math because I don't believe it is going to be 135°F after turbo before I/C , it should be 2-300°F even with little to no boost. Maybe 135 after cooling, if you can get within 50°F of ambient...

Ha ha ha you so funny, next time I see you we will check my density by me sitting on you! That might change your density! Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What's IAT? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What's 135 degrees IAT? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Is the actual roof insulated and how well? I have the same trailer and have thought about most of this also. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Honestly I prefer a truck with 5000 miles or more from rebuild at any of the rebuild sites because by then 99% of the bugs have been worked out. I have seen many and owned many rebuilt trucks and you don't honestly know if your truck was ever rebuilt or not, unless you have a rebuild tag or the...

Should have I will look, should be same as the other horizontal brace Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Since I think that this is aimed at me and AORP I will try and answer, one we got them cheap, and it should be more than enough cooling capacity and packaging is nice so I can run my stock 939 condenser. Now I haven't mounted mine yet but it is the closest thing to the prototype on the M936A3...

Okay bud by trailer board you mean tow lights? And as to the access to the space why not make it fuel or oil storage? Then direct access wouldn't be needed. A few questions about your Australian wreckers what is the can behind the air cleaner? And inboard of both front turn signals is some kind...

Sorry you got a bad transmission bud that's a raw deal unless you were told it was just a core, even then I would be upset about the water. Doghead is just trying to make this as good a place as possible to find good information, as easy as possible. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk