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a few years ago you could buy them direct from stewart & stevenson for about $120. the 'relays' are solid state switches and are cheap although they add up. if anyone needs one repaired, contact me.

farmer, remove the cover again and free up the shaft. it must move VERY easily. some type of solvent like laquer thinner perhaps, then lube it with light oil.

i think most people on this forum don't understand diesels. this is shown by "strong going past 60 on the speedo." max speed is 56 mph and is on the data plate for a reason. just because the high idle of a diesel is, say, 2900 rpm does not mean it can be operated at that rpm. the operators...

ernie, the 3053 and 3053A (both .79) are the same transmission in regard to ratios. all the gears and internal parts are the same. the 'A' may refer to the improved oiling for 2nd gear but i have not confirmed that. you have made your own 'overdrive' by adding larger tires. in your case .71 od...

let me point out a couple of thing not said here. the head bolt wrenches from anyone may be old and would have been made for the older engines that used lower head bolt torque. blocks with the TD use higher torque so i would not be supprised to see wrenches break. caterpiller uses stainless...

check to be sure you have a TD marked block before you waste your time on an older engine. saturn head bolt wrenches are very good, for what they were designed for, which is the lower head bolt torque of the older engine blocks without the TD mark. have the injectors checked while they are out...

too much current thru the starter switch. that is why the relay is there in the first place, replace it.

this whole discussion has been about multifuel engines and the od trans that come behind them. the 3053 has 27% od and if you were to put a 26% od box behind that it would be too much. if you are now saying that you are comparing mack powered 5 tons to multifuel deuces then of course the mack...

the power that goes to the low air buzzer switch is the same power that goes to the start button.

there you go again saying you can put a 25% or 26% box behind a trans that already has 27%. it's sad.

RE: Here is what I sounds a lot like the shut off lever is stuck in off position. pull the cover, 2 screws, and see that the rod and lever move freely.

well, bruce just gave one away..........

the acc switch is a dual switch, half of it could be bad........

could just be a weak unit, it is inside the lighting switch.

my vote is still for dirty injectors, they will cause all the symtoms described. i can run mine for 20 minutes at 1000 and nothing....... bjorn, lets find that 656 and import it.

well, i'm glad it worked out for you. had you given the true specs of the aux you were using, we would have told you that it would work in the first place. there is no subsitute for knowing what you are working with, and no reason not to plan a project and that includes the math, not just guessing.

RE: Re: RE: Stripping old paint take it to someone who does sandblasting. it is the only way to go...........

bjorn, i have never tested injectors and had more than 3 good. the engine will still run sort of ok but the jet of fuel rather than a fine mist will cause more smoke. since i put all new injectors and new ip head on, almost NO smoke at idle when hot and little even when cold

maybe we need two engines to turn this?? i think the problem begins with not enough research, and with bad info available. so let me do the math, if this is in a bobbed deuce, with the fuel turned up scary high, and on very level road, this is doable, barely. good to be going down a little hill...

yeah, i know.............