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The PDF does not show one but I am sure we can substitute one of the other switches. I just brought mine inside and it looks like the GK-1 switch. It has a GK-10 at the end of the MFR number.
I agree that you will lose the park feature (which I really like) if you replace it with a ball valve. I wonder if the original control switches can be rebuilt? It might be dry o-rings.
Try playing with the wiper control knobs and listen for difference in the sound of the leak. Mine was from the wiper control. Replaced the leaking control switch and no more leak.
I saw that on YouTube last week. Its good if you plan to use the tires without the run-flats. However my jigsaw method is much faster and easier if the tires are going to be scrapped anyway. I did 5 tires in 15 minutes.
Saturday I started to work on replacing my leaking master cylinder with the new one I ordered from ERIK'S Military Surplus. I removed the skid plate from the bottom of the hydro-boost. Got 3 bolts off the master cylinder and could not get the 4th that was near the frame on the top. I decided...
Well I hope more sign up. i am really looking forward to visiting Camp Shelby and hanging out with our local members. I hope Doug can make it. I will contact Michael Hassett and see if he will be available. Also Buster is on my to call list.
I think you would get more coverage if you moved the thread to a different category. I would not have seen the thread if you hadn't told me to search for it.
The Hutchinson run-flats are rubber one piece. According to the writing on them they need to be installed with the run-flat lube. Here is a picture of the run flats i have:
The 2 notches you see on the edge of the bead lock portion are for the air inflation valve.
Yes they are except for the beads. That is why I cut the sidewalls near the tread as seen in the picture. I use a fine tooth metal cutting jigsaw blade. It was so fast i could not believe it! I just drilled a 1/2" hole and went in both directions with the saw. I made sure the run flats were...
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