Search results

I think that first base is to follow up on @peapvp post to bolt down the throttle cable. It won't do anything productive until you do that. Once it is bolted down, you can start the adjustment process. After that could you take a picture of the exhaust "smoke", if it still exists? I have found...

@hawk-aggie I know nothing. Dumb question here, but given the military predilection for 24V, what are the chances that your unit was modified to 24V, rather than 12V? E.g. does the alternator data plate read 24V, or 12V, or perhaps a schematic that shows whether the batteries are wired in series...

@Guyfang, that looks really helpful, but that flywheel enclosure doesn't seem to match mine, so I am probably doing something stupid. That hole would seem to me to be nominally 120 / 240 degrees from the starter, according to that very clear and helpful diagram. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Two thoughts; Is there a drain hole at the bottom of the flywheel assembly? (I'm not near mine to check.) I've never attempted it, but wouldn't inserting a screwdriver into the generator head fan serve the same purpose of locking the crankshaft? All the best, 2Pbfeet

Congratulations! Can you elaborate a bit? What else have you tried, and what exactly have you done? What does the AC contractor do? What troubleshooting steps have you done from the manual to troubleshoot? More detail will help everyone... All the best, 2Pbfeet

If you purchase a digital ammeter that has installation instructions, and follow those instructions, it is likely to work. Most will come with their own shunts or sensors, bypassing the the original MEP-803A wiring. That is a fix. It most certainly sidesteps whatever the underlying issue in...

I like @Jeepadict's pigmat suggestion. I use a small leftover fast food tray. It seems to work for me, and is reusable for many filters. YMMV. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Use your favorite search engine to search something like the following; marathon se350 manual In my case the top hit gets a link to the Marathon website with it; https://www.marathongenerators.com/generators/docs/manuals/SB0337E.pdf All the best, 2Pbfeet

Much as I am a fan of "it can't be tight if it's a liquid" occasionally, given what else is on the trailer, I would vote for a big wrench and a breaker bar, or large impact wrench.

@JerryK you could try any of these in your favorite search engine(s) and see what you get; use the phrase filetype, followed by a colon, followed by pdf, (no space from colon to pdf), I.e. "filetype"+":"+"pdf" instead of the emoticons below. (Anyone know how to quote text so the emoticons don't...

Partshawk.com lists the Airtex E8135 as 1/4-18NPSF inlet and a 3/8 (npt?) outlet, but I would double check yours as there many variations floating around. https://partshawk.com/airtex-e8135-electric-fuel-pump.html All the best, 2Pbfeet

That helps a bit. (I know nothing.) Did you look at the older thread here; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tm-for-pu-821-t-pu-822a-t-power-plant.131746/# ? It was a TMSS100G: Power Plant, Utility, PU-821/T, GREEN, NSN 6115-01-547-6713, DLA NSN 8340-01-533-5396, is a green system...

I avoid teflon tape on diesel lines, both because it tends to leak and others have had trouble with injector fouling. I also avoid silicone products. It is an NPT fitting, and should seal without sealant, it if you want sealant, get one for diesels like this...

I prefer 1/8" holes as mice can get through 1/4" openings...

That is helpful. Have you looked at how much your freezer actually draws when it kicks on? (LRA?) At first glance, since you have observed that it correlates with the freezer starting, I would at least consider that the LRA plus the other loads is too much, triggering the "Short circuit"...

I'd bring it into your local auto parts or Napa store, as it isn't too fancy, just needs to be diesel compatible. The spring is required to keep the filter in place, so it is great that you have it. The one of the small o-rings helps keep dirty fuel from bypassing the filter, the other keeps...

The fuel filter assembly has three kinds of gaskets. Top to bottom: 1) the thin outer o-ring between the outer bowl and the filter mount. 2) the thick, wide inner gasket/washer between the filter and the housing, (usually comes with the filter) 3) the two, small o-rings either side of the spring...

There is a whole thread on this, but the short answer is it is a dash 202 o-ring available from a many suppliers. e.g. McMaster-Carr. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/leaking-secondary-fuel-filter-at-the-bolt.218979/post-2560670 In general, you can measure the o-ring size and turn it into...

I agree with @Guyfang on this one as well. Unless you go all in, stripping this down to an engine and a gen head with AVR, you are going to have a lot of wires, so the odds that removing the wires will solve the short issue is much less than one in three in my book. If you want a stripped down...

FWIW: the eBay listing from @Light in the Dark maps to Carquest auto parts as the actual seller. All the best, 2Pbfeet