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Thanks! The part label looks reassuring! I've ordered one. We shall see, All the best, 2Pbfeet

I think that they are actually two tanks, and designed to go around a beveled hull or wheel well. The MSRP is $5k/ea, which makes me wonder what is inside them, e.g. anti-spark / flashback resistant material. The caps are labeled for Diesel. They look to have been around the block, but could...

Thanks for the follow up, and I'm glad that you got it working. There are third party strainers to be had; I tend to assume that diesel isn't clean, and refueling tends to occur in less than perfect conditions. But maybe that's just me. All the best, 2Pbfeet

If it were me, I would try to find a NOS/good used one. If you go down the route of new, in the past, I have used these folks, but be prepared, pricey! https://www.engravers.com/instrumentation-panels https://engravingandlaser.com/ I'm sure there are lots more around, and comparison shopping...

No, I didn't intend to scare you with this. Yes, it functions just like a coolant overflow bottle on most engines. The only unusual thing to me about the MEP-803 radiator cap is access / location, and that tends to leave behind a little more air than radiators with the cap at the high point of...

The overflow bottle is there to purge air out of the system. When the coolant heats up, the pressure is vented into the bottle, which includes any gas, or air. On cooling the vacuum, sucks only coolant back in. After a few cycles, on most reasonably designed engines, the air and therefore the...

Or just a clamp amp meter on the alternator output...

It is the little things that reach up and bite you, isn't it? Thanks for sharing! All the best, 2Pbfeet

Congratulations! Good luck on running down the random misfires. Out of curiosity, how much fuel did you go through? All the best, 2Pbfeet

+1 on water in the fuel, both from the perspective of an intermittent misfire, and being a generator running post hurricane in a humid area... Try draining the water block filter as @FarmingSmallKubota suggested, and then add some extra cetane booster/water emulsifier. All the best, 2Pbfeet

With all that you have written this motor failure sounds like it just happened to be the time when the motor gave up the ghost. I'll be interested to read what you think the new motor sounds like compared to the old one. I don't generally think of 5HP motors, especially Baldor motors, as being...

I'm with you about coincidences. Sorry to hear about the motor issue. In my experience, Baltor motors generally last better than 200 hours, but I don't know the motor model in this compressor. Did you check the generator output with a DVM? Was anything else running? Did you check the capacitors...

@spotrep one of the reasons that I put IEC 60309 receptacles on my generators was to increase the safety of interconnections during wet weather. I was uncomfortable with the risks with the more common connections. The military finesses wet weather safety through the use of the cord pass through...

As a preamble, surge suppressors come in a variety of types, a range of energy absorption capacities, and a spread of allowed voltage ranges. Most whole house suppressors clamp to ground at around @600V, and can dissipate 50-140,000A. E.g...

My apologies for not being clear the first time. Yes, I prefer to disconnect sensitive devices prior to and during storms. (I also prefer to have them on a UPS and at least one surge protector.) I have lived through what nearby lightning strikes can do, and how much it costs in work and...

Ain't that the truth! Me, included. I've done some really foolish things, and consider myself lucky to be here. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Ok... again, I'm glad that you made it through ok, and that you are thinking how to make your setup even better for the next one. As a general rule, light tower generators are designed for just that; powering lights, and in their normal usage, a few flickers isn't going to bother anyone. So, I...

What are you thinking by "clean"? "Clean" in what sense? No light flickers? The Fukushima nuclear meltdown happened because the backup generators were installed at sea level. All the best, 2Pbfeet

That all may be the case, but the electrical setup that you described isn't intrinsically safe for something that is potentially lethal. A generator interlock or transfer switch will keep folks safer, including you.

It is what I use (OptiLube Summer+), but bear in mind that the some (most?) of the lubricity comes from biodiesel, and biodiesel itself is prone to oxidizing into gummy deposits... There's been a bit written on the quality of the testing, but I don't have a horse in that race. All the best...