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It helped a whole lot. Since then I replaced the whole filter to an A3 style for more room in the engine compartment. That style has it's own "pre" filter on it.

A few years back there where quite a few guys who did this mod. Since I didn't come-up with the idea I never posted about it.

Don't use "grease" on any wheel though ! The grease starts to attack the rubber compounds in the tires. That's one reason you need to wipe down tires after repairing a wheel seal leak.

I've never had good luck with those "seal additives" myself. Once the rubber seals start to go, they just go. I usually replace "Butyl" rubber seals with "Nitrile" or "Viton". If they make one, the "silicone" seals are the best. There called "flouraelastom" something. I'll look up the proper...

Could be the injection pump. It needs to be adjusted (externally) periodically.

I kept the stock base but added a "air-bag" in place of the large spring. I then put a Jeep seat on that. Works great. I also plan on adding a 18" steering wheel which will give me 2" of room.

I found it didn't work very well. Hopefully you will have better luck then I did.

To Fairbanks ? Remember this is a trip along the "ALCAN" hiway. From Dawson in Canada to Fairbanks in Alaska.

Compared to todays tires which last two years before exposure rots them !

Actually the TM9-8617 really goes into great detail on rebuilding. Most people won't need the information about "burnishing" your bushings but it's there if you do need it. I also have an original copy of the TM 9-1819AC manual. So I know what it has compared to the TM 9-8617 manual which was...

I know ! I'm really working hard on it ! My steering gear is almost ready from the machine shop. They have had it for 5 months now, but I've pestered the owner enough that he is finally getting on it. Once that is finished and the power steering is in I'll do the brakes and then we should be...

No, these are "sealed" units like any refrigerator. Your thinking about an automotive style system were the compressor seals can dry out and leak from not running.

Or just go with the "Bendix AD9" and only pay $40.00 or less to rebuild it. Also the 24 volt elements are very easy to find and cheap ! The Haldex will cost you four times the amount in it's lifetime over the Bendix. More if you actually replace the desiccant every two years (every year in wet...

That was my first thought too.

Or just go with a "Bendix AD 9" like I and many others have done. It costs about $180.00 up front but the rebuilds only cost $50.00 or less. My last rebuild cost only $35.00 . This air-dryer has been around for decades so parts are available everywhere.

I would post the information here if I could, but my internet speed is just a bit above "dial-up" !!!!! When I post pictures here it can take all night for me.

I totally agree with you. I was just referring to those who feel you don't need any assistance.

I'm glad you where able to get another cab. Having to deal with major rust is a total pain !

Well if you have the TM 9-8617 like I do you will have that information.