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The depth of the pan doesn't matter as the sender is at the top, not the bottom. I agree though it should have some protection if your going out into the boonies. A simple little brush guard would be simple to make. Actually if your going out into the boonies and expect such nasty things to get...

That weight I quoted did not include the bellhousing , shift tower or even the flywheel. These transmissions where the first so they didn't know what would break or what could be made from aluminum. We now know the whole housing can be made from aluminum, but back then who knew ? That is one...

Funny, as that is the part I was just cleaning up and posted about a few days ago. I have found those parts to have a lot of "flashing" from the original casting that never got cleaned up. It's an old trick I used to help prevent "come-backs" in the shop.

It's a shame that this system doesn't work as well as it should. It gives the truck great advantages when out in the boonies. I've often wondered if all the seals where replaced with "silicone" seals if that wouldn't help. Either that or heavy duty "Viton" seals. Just thinking out load.

Those are my two favorite brands of transmission to rebuild. I have always loved the simplicity and durability of the Torqueflite 727. It had it's flaws, but in todays racing world all those flaws are fixable with enough cash. Actually it doesn't take much money to build up one to take over...

Oh come on now. The basic transmission only weighs in at 435 Ibs. Add the deep cast iron oil pan and cooler and that bumps it up another 100 Ibs. Then of course there is the two speed splitter on the back. I don't know how much that weighs in at but I would guess at least 200 Ibs. So that means...

Everyone "PooPoos" the NDT tires. I've found them to be pretty good in all weather. Not "excellent" but good. That was the whole reason for them in the first place. They are a good all around tire. Out here in the rainy Northwest they could use some "sipping" for all the water on the road, but...

I agree that looks like brake fluid to me too.

You correct in that my "opinion" of the best operating temperatures is on the conservative side, but after working on transmissions for some 40 years I found these temps to be the best to stay in for the life of the transmission. Also oil starts to break down at around 250 degrees. So I never go...

The sender is high on the side of the oil pan. It would take some serious brush to reach that area.

Not to bust your chops but actually it is the "Dual Range Hydra-Matic" transmission. Torqueflite is Chrysler. Also there are some companies that are making rebuild kits, but they are expensive. As far as being "notorious" the Hydra-Matic was and still is a very well built transmission. Their...

I'll answer the sender part for you. I went with the sender in the oil pan as that is the area the manufacturer suggests. Some people like to put one on the "converter out" port. The problem is that is always going to be hot. There is no factory specs for that area either. Most aftermarket oil...

I'm glad to hear he is OK. At my age when friends go missing for awhile it means they died. I really hate that ! Good to know "Rocky" is still above ground !

Does anyone know what has happened to "Another Ahab" ? It's been months now with no sign of him. I miss his "witty" comments.

That was a funny story Guy ! It reminded me of the time I was cleaning out the intake heater grid on a CAT C-9 engine. I was using brake clean and totally lost my mind and tried to start up the engine ! Luckily there was a fire extinguisher nearby ! All it did was burn up a few wires and the...

He's right. You can't beat the laws of nature. Ain't gonna happen.

The temperature should stay between 150F and 180F degrees. If you go above 220F your looking at cooking your transmission. I have my temperature gauge sender mounted on the oil pan.

I bet fun was had by all too ! LOL !!!

I'm going with the bigger shed er shop !

Well you've come a long ways then David, and your brave enough to share it with us.