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That sounds like what they did when building the AlCan highway back in the 30's. My father worked on it as a civilian truck driver. They ran in convoys and when they stopped at the army stations to eat and use the outhouse they put fuel in the hub caps and placed them under the oil pans and...
Another thing to consider is the starter itself. Old style starters use permanent magnets and they have a tendency to loose their magnetism over time. This will create a slow turning starter. I had over 12 starters in my shed that I through out this last summer due to the magnets going bad. Most...
All our buses and all the semi-trucks I worked on had the spring tension clamps. They still leak though. On some housings, I've seen the casting line go right down the outlet housing with no attempt to clean it up from the factory. Yes the hose will conform to that rough casting to a degree...
We performed those 20 MPH tests all the time on the buses. In fact it is mandatory before and after a brake job. You do the test three times, and it must fall within specs every time. The parking brake test is performed every 6,000 miles.
Today I was working on some engine parts. Cleaning and painting and grinding and filing. On all the parts I clean I like to remove all casting "flash" from them. That brings up my tech tip. As most of you know, during winter the coolant has a tendency to leak from engine hose ends. Especially...
Basically "98G" said it all. Look for something non-living to hit. Even semi-trucks with their "maxi-cans" will not stop just using the emergency brake. In all testing of emergency brakes on buses and semi-trucks the emergency brake is only suppose to stop the vehicle up to speeds of 5 MPH ...
I agree with porkysplace. Get the air-lockers. You will like them much better. If you cannot afford all three then just get one for the front axle. It will make a world of difference off-road !
If you decide not to use the old Hydra-Matic transmission, I would be interested in buying it. I also hope you can free-up that block ! It would be great if you could reuse the old pistons.
I've used "Pri-D" for over a decade now and have had no problems. I started with totally clean tanks though. Maybe some residue from the past interacts with the "Pri-D" . Either way though I would continue to use the "Pri-D" as it is the best on the market at this time.
Before you break the crankshaft bolt try and remove the pistons. You should be able to pound them out with a wood dowel from the bottom. I've done this many times in the past. Use lots of LPS or equivalent in the cylinders. Then see if the crank will move. It won't matter if you bugger up the...
The reason I was asking about the year and model is if this is a dual brake system deuce it would have the front brake booster on that side where it's leaking. Old DOT 5 brake fluid is amber in color and when spilled on concrete it can look like water.
I do own the "special' tools to check the end-play, but the easiest way is to just hold the unit upside down and push up the input shaft. I own the "kent moore" transmission holder so it is easy to invert the transmission. If you did want to buy the "special" tool you can find it on eBay for...
Have you actually touched it ? It looks like old DOT 5 brake fluid. What model truck do you have ?
Also porkysplace is right. You need to download and read all those manuals.
Generally speaking the "ATRA" rebuild books are pretty good, but sometimes they use methods that really should not be done unless your in the Artic and have no other tools handy. I was a member of ATRA in the early 1980's . They had lofty goals but they never reached them. ATRA or "Automatic...
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