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Since that yoke is setting so far out your experiencing the unsupported part wobbling causing your vibrations. That amount of yoke setting out like that should be only when your experiencing total axle deflection downward, not just statically setting there. Think of it like your hand holding a...

Check your transfer-case for cracks. You could have cracked the housing and this will cause your problem. Also check the output yoke of the transfer-case. Try and move it up and down. If it is moving more then a few thousands then the bushing is bad.

Put a "cheater" bar on the torque wrench. I have a 3ft long one for my wrench.

With todays vises I would only use the "Wilton" as they are the only ones with a totally sealed barrel shaft. The others say they are sealed but they will leak and ruin your shaft and bearings. Of course the Wilton is also one of the most expensive vises out there. I still plan on mounting one...

That's wrong about the semi-trucks all going to 12 volt. There are still plenty that use 24 volts . Also all the busses still use 24 volts. Some are even using 48 volts now.

DOT air line is also used as diesel and gasoline fuel lines. Has for decades now. The clear fuel line will not last more then a few years (even the "Tygon" stuff) while the "Nylon" DOT line will last your and your grandsons life times. I've used lines that go back to the 1970's and you cannot...

Actually one of the best things to do to prevent the button from coming off the plunger is to take the top nut off the Hydraulic Head and squirt some lubricant like "PB Blaster" in the hole. This will help lubricate the plunger in it's bore which can stick after setting for a long period of...

All I can say is it wasn't me ! I know Marines have a "reputation" for "repurposing" other branches property, but this time I wasn't there !

The inner hub is suppose to act as an "index" for the wheel. Once the lug nuts are tightened, it helps hold the wheel assembly to a concentric center. Meaning is helps keep it center to the hub assembly. If the wheel is allowed to "shift" during tightening it would cause a terrible out of...

Yes, there are a number of places that carry the rebuild kit for the "C" turbo. I paid $100.00 for mine, which (until I get a good turbine) be setting on my shelf collecting dust.

For those wondering how I store my drag-links here it is. Picture one shows the 3" ABS tube with a end plug glued on and a access plug glued on the other end. I have some hard foam on the bottom and top and I wrap the drag-link with the spongy shelf liners from Home Depot. I also install new...

One of the advantages of being a "crusty old mechanic" is all the knowledge floating around your noggin. One of the "disadvantages" is all that knowledge floating around your now OLD noggin ! Things get lost up there ! Case in point. I'm building up a supply of spare parts for the deuce for the...

I'll be watching Stan ! Thanks for the heads up.

I thought I would take this time to warn everyone that is planning on buying or thinking about buying a used Turbo something to look out for. Last year I bought a "good running" used "C" turbo from a fellow Steel Soldiers member. After tearing it down I found this damage to the Exhaust Turbine...

It is rated from -20F below to 2400F above and has excellent wash-out resistance and lubricity.

Here is the information for a rebuild kit. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/otvatu3112.html Part #318385 . Also for those who want a new Chinese "Whistler" Turbo here is the link. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19mutr3ltu11.html

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Picture one shows the bolts and straps going on. I used stainless steel bolts with "Marine Grade" anti-seize on them. Picture two shows the scribe marks on the "Impeller Housing" and "Bearing housing". Picture three shows the drain tube installed. You can leave the outside bolt loose as the...

Picture one shows the bushing going in. Note the small holes facing out. This end goes to the "Turbine" side (exhaust). Picture three shows the new seal ring going on, and in picture four you see the turbine and shaft going into the bushing/housing. Now flip over the bearing housing and install...

In picture one you see the sling plate and the ring retainer. You must install the retainer into the sling plate first then install the seal ring. Then in picture two you install the retainer into the housing ('O' ring was installed earlier) . Then in picture four you install the whole assembly...