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I also like the 85/140 though I use Synthetic. With all the heat the rear differentials experiences the 140w oil really makes a difference on the highway. No more screaming gears !
Now the wife has me doing some of her "must get done" items. Like fix the travel trailers brakes. So today I was doing that, with a little of my own projects thrown in. :wink:
Since we are experiencing some great weather for the next several days mowing the lawn has been added. It takes 10...
Got the brackets all welded up, cleaned and painted (primer) . Before anyone asks, the clamp in picture two is a "Wilton" welding clamp. The screw is made from "Bronze" (that's why its gold colored) so that the welding splatter does not stick to it and damage the threads. I need to find some...
I agree, that is the best way. IHC loved those. The problem is the cost. For just adding a little 1/2" square hole in the bracket they eliminate all that extra stuff. In my opinion you can tell a really good engine manufacture by the little stuff they have on their engines like this belt...
Well I did a little research last night about these rings. First off the hone pattern needs to be more aggressive and not as "smooth" a finish as you normally would have. Second, you need to put that engine under some serious load right after getting oil pressure ! The ring manufacture...
I got the chance to weld the braces on today, but in my rush I knocked off the tacked on left side "L" bracket ! Now I have to bolt it up again and tack weld it and then go to town with the 7018. That also means I have to drag the welder down the hill to do it ! I hate to have to "repeat" work...
Yep, what he said. Tightening any other way can damage the pump. Just remember, all manufactures provide a way to tighten the pumps or any accessory. You just need to look for it. Of course my Subaru needs a special tool to slip the belt on the Air-compressor, but that is another story.
When I first saw your original idea I thought to myself "here's another dreamer that will start this project and then due to costs and time will give-up and sell it for scrap" . Well you proved me wrong in a big way ! Congratulations on a job well done !!! I hope your business does well and you...
Isn't that what I said ? Just use the one of the four shift patterns supplied and call it good. No need to go and design your own. Isn't that what we are talking about ? Or did I miss something ?
Are you sure the new kits have "chrome-molly" rings ? If that is so then that could be the problem right there. These engines where not designed to use chrome-molly rings. They are too hard to seat properly without the proper hone pattern on the bores, and the correct break-in procedure. It's...
All I can say is "WOW" you don't know the sh!tt storm you can get into playing with shift points. There are so many variables ! That is why Allison has a "adaptive" shift program on all their electronic controlled transmissions. It checks and stores all the throttle positions and engine RPMs and...
Don't even waste your time trying this. The driveline machine shops have specialized machines to keep perfect alignment and balance. They cut the drivelines on a lathe, (not with a grinder) and weld them up perfectly square. If you weld the yoke just one degree out of phase with the other you...
I like that picture of all the dozers. I have three 1941 IHC TD6 dozers and one TD9 dozer myself. I have to have them hauled off for scrap though ! The one TD6 was my fathers and ran until 15 years ago when I got it on its side and ran the engine out of oil before I could shut it off. The other...
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