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Welcome and congrats. I flat towed a 1078 back from Sleazeville to HOUTX but that was zero fun. Took 16 hours door to door. Have some hotshot drivers on standby. Rear top bows have to come off if so equipped.

I JB welded up about 20 holes on mine after cleaning it with muratic acid. It was a waste of time. Tank is a POS.

One of my sore subjects with my former hometown truck manufacturer is the lack of an end treatment for the winch cable other than a clevis. Well here is my solution, the tailchain hook assy from a M35 series truck. Red River Parts fixed me up, ask for the heavy chain, they have a 3/8 chain...

Might go from 4 mpg to even worse.

Try this guy, he is from Magnolia: lynx1hotshot@hotmail.com. 832-605-0466. Has a great new Landoll and did a great job on an overdimensional job for me a while back. It goes without saying that driving this on I-10 at 35 mph is not an option.

Air up that tire, remove the banjo bolt from the wheel stud, and soap test to see if you get a bubble in the banjo fitting. If so, the wheel valve could have contamination or be defective. If that is good, the O ring at the wheel flange is likely bad. Hard to bubble check that unless you use...

Got a take out drum to drum '09 axle here in Houston that needs a home. Can put it on a pallet and motor freight it to you.

My new MTRs are all 08s too, I'm just really glad Goodyear does not agree there is a factory defect with them. These have the Kevlar sidewalls which is a new thing for tires.

The pin hole is unfixable? Seems like with all the new magic chemicals these days, a dab of something would seal it.

Lookin' good. We all got a little insight into Faith Tire's warranty nightmare here in a thread a while back. I suppose the scrap tire buyers have discovered there are more reasons than low tread that Uncle will dismount a perfectly good looking MTR.

This thread covers what you want to do: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?165169-Will-an-old-fashioned-GM-speed-driven-fan-clutch-fit-the-HMMWV&highlight=viscous

I just know that when you pressed the red button, a REALLY loud noise happened and something far away became little pieces. Lemme look in my M47 ORD9.

I would use the Fel Pro gaskets. Seems like when you silicone two parts together directly, it becomes nearly impossible to get them apart, no big deal with castings, but you tend to bend up the valve covers prying on them. I assume you have to change the valve covers to suit the CUCV CDR...

Your M51 looks super clean to me. All driveline components except for the engine are the same between the two trucks, what are you gaining by doing all this work?

Yeah, I did not think so. "Lose power and eventually stall" does not sound like the abrupt engine off situation you would get with the wires. As far as the return line, I would get the compressed air nozzle and start blowing.

Did a little digging. The only Oshkosh crash truck made in 1974 is the P4. It had the engine in the back, with the transmission pointing forward. So the front axle disconnect, if it has one, will be on the wrong side of the transfer case if you put the engine in the usual spot on your build.

This thread has a ton of info you are looking for: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?113634-Ever-see-inside-the-Protective-Control-Box/page3&highlight=protective I found this thread by searching for the term "protective" in the 5 ton forum.

We can help you don't give up. Pictures: Press "go advanced" then press "manage attachments" then press "add files" then press "select files", pick your picture from your device, then press "upload files". Do you have two hot batteries connected in series? Do your lights work? What happens...

Welcome. That was not used in any other military trucks that I am aware of. I would guess it is a single ratio 1:1, based on the "thinness" of the box (verify by turning yokes). Power would be applied to the upper drive yoke, and then would go through the "drop box" gears to the lower shaft...

Welcome. Your only hope to figure out what AFB your truck was assigned to is from markings that may be painted over on the bumpers. If from Ohio, only a few choices.