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@HDN You are a Freakin Genius!
Yes! The second picture in Post #149 (previous page) HAS the frame support.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-first-multifuel.207571/post-2468722
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Welcome to the Outfit @Wreckclues !
Need to give you the standard speech about using the TM's (Technical Manuals) and that they are freely posted here. Since your New-To-You truck is a M813, the books you want are called the M809 Series books. Link for them is below...
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For a long time, I worked in a trailer shop and removing both tires, the spyder, and the drum in one step saved me many hours in a day. Removing the oil cup and the wheel bearing nuts and bearings could get an oil seal replaced in about 20 minutes.
Of course I was a good bit younger then...
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Reminds me of sitting on the runway waiting... and waiting... and waiting... and spin up the props, then wait... then shut it down... then wait some more. SNAFU for sure and FUBAR too!
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I've seen that done.
Also found a truck done that way "down in the back" with a broken spring. The way it's made now - breaking the spring is almost impossible. My mumbly opinion is that if the owner needs a better ride - maybe this isn't the right truck for the job. Or the right truck for...
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Nice! Those LED lights affixed to the shed is a good addition if you need to do maintenance.
Guessing you have already done a preliminary test run?
Sure hope you don't need to use them, but at least they are standing at the ready.
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The wreckers are generally done that way - with the beam on top of the springs. Just guessing that is an upgrade for vehicles carrying extra weight. Logic says the beam as opposed to a bigger spring pack was because the vehicle needed extra weight capacity for a short term "mission".
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I would say that having a trailer and ramps will make your recovery much easier than using a tow bar! These things are pretty wide, so expect it to be tight! Any canvas should be lowered if you can because it flapping in the breeze will eat it up! It will still take most of a day, but if you...
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Well Congratulations!
Yeah, that isn't cheap but if it was done by somebody really in the business of moving vehicles for others - not really. The insurance that should cover your truck if something went wrong on the move is expensive. Then there is the $500 and honestly, that isn't a lot...
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I agree with @kendelrio . Crud in the brake lines will often cause the problem that you described. The brake booster is next if your brake fluid comes out clean and clear. Opening the bleeder screw at the brake booster could free up the shoes too. The rubber hoses will collapse from the...
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It looks like a lot of good sheetmetal! It will be lots of work, but the end result will be a fine looking truck... Glad that you have @Spot_ll to make it really look sharp.
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I have seen 1157's crammed into the socket backward. Have also seen them with the "high leg" ground off. The lights act "weird" when inserted the wrong way. It could be that somebody has been playing with the wiring - possibly for a non-standard trailer hookup?
The gauge lights being dim...
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Kinda like @cucvrus mentioned, grounds can be a problem. WITH THE LIGHTS OFF, it might be worth getting one of those bulb socket brushes at the local parts house. Remove all the bulbs and "give em hekk" then use a little Anti-Oxidation paste on the base and sides of the bulb.
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Yeah for sure if you have something to upload, even us lowly regular users can help you get it posted.
I'm going to send you a PM (Private Message) with my email. Whatever you have, I'd be happy to help.
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Happy to hear you got the steering arm off! Yeah!!
More penetrating oil. ATF seems to have worked well for you. Weasel Pi$$ is mixture for that work.
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Truck off, I release the brakes, it rolls. I can't swear to any more than that.
Disconnecting the drive shafts should mean less mass to move, when you try to move it - but by default the "truck is in neutral".
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