Search results

Yes

E2 negative comes from TB4-10

Out of curiosity about that I rolled my 1030 out this morning to do some tests to see what the voltages on the legs would be with un-balanced and balanced loads. The loads were a pair of 1,500 watt 120 volt heaters. No load. Both L1 & L2 voltages at 120 VAC 1.5 KW load L1 to Neutral & 1.5...

So it dead cranks OK but no power to the panel. Any chance the red Emergency Off button is pushed in? Put the Dead Crank switch in NORMAL and check for 24 volts at: - both used terminals on the Emergency off switch - both terminals on CB1 - terminals 2,4,6 & 8 on S1 - terminal 2 on S2

To facilitate tracking down electrical issues with the MEP-802A and MEP-803A I put together 3 PDF's and a page of notes. 1) PDF document is a table of all the individual wires in the MEP-802A and MEP-803Aand is sorted by wire number 2) PDF document is a table of all the individual wires in the...

Interesting the DCS shows both the L1 & L2 Genset and Bus Voltages being different and the same voltage. Maybe verify the voltages at the lugs with a good meter to figure out if they are indeed different. I noticed your Oil Pressure is kinda low. My 1030 runs around 59 PSI on the DCS.

Ignore the Aux Fuel Pump power for now. Focus on getting power to the primary pump. It's needed to run the engine. The Aux fuel pump only refills the tank with fuel. It does NOT provide fuel to the engine.

With S1 in Prime/Run the primary fuel pump E2 should get +24 volt power from the Fault Relay K12-1. Here is the wiring patch to check along for +24 volts to the Primary Fuel pump. J13/P13 is the 2 pin fuel pump connector Wire...

The primary fuel pump E2 should run as long as S1 in in Prime/Run, Prime/Run/Aux or START as long as there are no engine or fuel Faults on the Fault Monitor. K12 is the engine fault relay. Normally the contacts in the highlighted path is closed unless there is an engine fault. S1-3 is the "Run"...

TB-3 is one of their favorite places to build a nest. Bastids!

I know it's a bit tedious but if it were me, I'd switch the plate back to 416 and see if the outlet voltage goes back to 120 volts.

The voltages you posted look about right. In post #14 you had 120 volts at the outlet with the replacement VR installed with the reconnection plate in the 416 position. After moving the reconnection plate now you only have 88 volts at the outlet? Got me scratching my head on this one!

The K2 relay is known to get corroded inside causing it to not close causing the no crank problem. They can be disassembled and cleaned to correct that.

The Start relay is NOT in the row of relays behind the gauge panel. These are the relays and functions of the relays in that row. The START relay K2 is located in the AC compartment which is behind the wall where the relays above are located. You need to take the roof panel off to get to...

I assume when you say "starter relay" you are referring to relay K2? If so, you'll want to see if terminal A1 on it is getting 24 volts all the time. Then check terminal A2 for 24 volts when you try and engage the starter from the Dead Crank Switch or S1. You may have multiple issue since the...

With the set running see what the DC voltage is across VR terminals 1 & 3. With the set running see what the DC voltage is across the VR wires going to M7 & K15. It ought to be about 24 volts

Yup, yours is set to 416

This one is set for 120/208

As I recall 208 and 416 is marked on the base and the plate has an arrow on it pointing to either 208 or 416. The plate gets moved up or down to change the AC output voltage. Need to remove the nuts securing the plate to reposition it.

I started suspecting it may have the wrong or defective shunt in it. Usually when they go bad, they totally open up.