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See PDF page 159 of that -13&P The version I referred to about 4-14 may be a different version. I have several version of the PDF.

Here is a link to the Technical Manuals, TM's, for the 831A. ---> 831A TMs See section 4-14 for the adjustment procedures.

The -13&P TM has the adjustment procedure for both the SLC100 Goernor Controller module and the mechanical linkage on the governor. The -13&P TM can be downloaded from the TM section of this forum.

If it doesn't shut off due to Low OP fault it's likely either the Governor Controller isn't working properly or the mechanical settings of the governor have been fiddled with. The low OP fault may be due to a bad LOP switch. They fail with some frequency in the 831s. The OP is usually about...

Is the generator new to you? Has it worked properly in the past? I assume you mean the Overload/Short Circuit fault lamp illuminates and the contactor opens.

My 802 running with the panel lights off draws 1.6 amps of 24 volt power.

Here in New England my 802 got a pair of Duracell branded 51R's back in 2016 or 2017. They are still going strong. I use two 12 volt Battery Tender chargers, one on each battery. They are on constant maintenance charge when not in use. About every 2-4 weeks I start and stop it a 15 times in an...

A suggestion would be to plumb in an accurate mechanical OP gauge and see what the oil pressure really is. Yes, the Remote Starts OP reading is in 5 PSI increments. It should be OK to tweek the calibration of the Remote to report 25 PSI if the actual PSI is 20. The Remote is watching the OP to...

-24 TM paragraph 2-29

@Waterhouse You're in luck. I have a complete fuse holder with fuse available. Sending PM..

I might have one. Would need to look through my my parts stash to see if I have one.

Good catch Ray. The same is true for the current meter. I updated my previous post.

According to the -10 TM it should display readings regardless if it's running stand alone or in parallel. Stand alone operation...

For starters, model generator are you working on?

The one I repaired looked like this. Vaporized righthand component and burned out PCB trace. I shot gunned it and replaced all 5 components in the row and repaired the burned out trace. The parts didn't cost much. It passed my quick bench test. Shipped it back to the owner. He installed...

I did some work for someone a couple of years ago converting a pile of new 400 Hz 804/5/6 VR's to support 60 Hz operation. It required changing out about a dozen parts to make them 60 Hz units. I haven't gotten into fixing them for the reasons Guy mentioned. If you have a failed one I'd first...

Quad Fuse Mod circled. It gets installed on the back wall behind the gauge panel just to the left of the A1 AC Voltage Regulator. Fuse should be a FNQ-R-3 instead of the KTK-3 in the picture.

The reason proper AC voltage is present with S1 in START is that the set is "Flashing" the gen head to kick off generation. Flashing is NOT done by the AC Voltage Regulator. It's done by other components behind the gauge panel. When you release S1 back to Prime/Run the AC Voltage Regulator...

Most likely a bad AC Voltage Regulator. You should test per the -24 TM to be sure.