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If starting with the electric starter and you are jumping with a heavy slave to slave cable and the arm does not lift off the magnet when you move S1 to START then it's likely someone messed with the magnet strength on the actuator assembly and increased the magnet strength. Yes, the magnet...

The AGMs in my 831. Two wired in series to get 24 volts. They've worked flawlessly. I use this set a LOT to test the Governor Controller and Remote Start assemblies. Lugs for + and - cables are from Lowes electrical department. Each batteries dimensions...

I believe the J shaped latch plates can be adjusted. I seem to recall the mounting holes are slotted. I use pairs of AGM 12 volt motorcycle batteries in my sets. When strapped together they are the same size and the original 24 volt AGM battry. I'll try and remember to look at the battery...

A while back I did some monitoring of the data flow between my Win7 PC running the Remote Monitoring and my 1030. What I found was that once the PC and 1030 did their link up handshaking the data flow was fairly simple. It's all done with Ascii characters over the PC's RS-232 serial port. Once a...

The CD I received was intact. The only note on the CD was that it was to "Remain with the generator set". No notes on the CD holder. Here is a screenshot of the PC Remote screen with a loads on L1 & L2 (120/240 mode)

Top one is a factory linkage rod assembly. Bottom is the DIY version with McMaster Carr parts listed above. The smooth "tail" on the DIY is a bit longer that factory but isn't an issue. :)

Parts on their way. Due to arrive tomorrow. I'll post a picture of it assembled tomorrow.

I did some poking around on McMaster Carr and it looks like one could be built using several parts from them. I'm going to order the parts and build one or two for the heck of it. :) Assembly order top to bottom is... Item 2, 10-32 nut (not listed), item 5, item 4, item 1, item 3 These..

Those are tough to find. Fabricating something functionally similar wouldn't be too difficult. You might try the manufacturer Governors America Corp for an original one. Link --> RD150 Rod Also Aerobase Group. Link --> RD150 Rod

You'd want it set to 3,450 RPM so the inverter can properly handle 0-100% load if you do.

I assume you are referring to some or most of these. When you say "manually move the lever" are your talking about about item 14 below? Which parts below are you missing?

They run at 3,600 RPM, not 1,800 like the bigger sets.

Does your set display 120 volts on the DCS display as circled below? The example below is for 3 phase.

ebay

The switch in the first post will NOT replace your S1 Master Start switch. I assume your S1 switch is a blue plastic one. Failure prone for sure. Ideally, you'd want to replace it with an Electro Switch 75902LV. They will last a lifetime, but are pricey. You could replace it with a 88-21160...

Got it, Thx!

No need to check T1 if using my VR. My VR doesn't use T1. :)

You'll want to test the T1 transformer to be sure it's working. They fail with some frequency.

Looks like someone put a LIBBY AC Voltage Regulator in by mistake! The Transformer T1 in your picture is a TRC Transformer for a TRC AC Voltage Regulator setup. The front panel potentiometer R1 is a 20K ohm one which is for a TRC AC Voltage Regulator setup. You don't have a picture of R16. R16...

That's NOT the test procedure for the LIBBY AC Voltage Regulator. That's one is for the TRC AC Voltage Regulator. The one for the LIBBY is -24 TM dated 1 May 2008 paragraph 4-1.1 4-1.1 Testing (AC Voltage Regulator, P/N 01-21501-1, for MEP-804A/MEP-804B). a. Shut down generator set. b...