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The engine RPM can oscillate if the governor droop adjustment is cranked up too high.

Also watch relay K15 to be sure it's not moving while the se is running. The contacts should be in the not activated position.

I'd suggest checking the connections along the path of F+ & F- from the VR to the Exciter to be sure there isn't a poor connection along the path. Be sure to check the connections in the gen head for the exciter too. They got to/from a pair of double male lugs on a small board. The path goes...

If you go to the TM section of the forum and go to the generators section you'll find the TMs for your set. The schematics are in the back of the Maintenance TM

Having the MPU disconnected prevents S14 from detecting that the engine has started. With that case the starter won't be disabled automatically and the gen head field won't get flashed. A good hardware store should have those crimp on connectors.

Link to the classifieds listing ---> Conversion Kit My email address is in the listing should you like further info. If send me your email address I can send you PDFs of the conversion instructions. Kurt

alte sells good stuff. Purchased all my solar components from them.

For insurance reasons be sure the breaker is UL listed. If it isn't and they may not pay on a claim.

Probably something wrong downstream. You'll certainly find out after you r er place them and if they blow again. Normally the fuses don't blow unless something is seriously wrong with the inverter. I've torn into a few that had some seriously burnt components and one with holes burned thru the...

I'd suggest hooking you voltmeter to meter M7 terminal I. The I should be embossed in the case of the meter by the terminal. Connect the meter negative to chassis ground. There is a ground stud on the right corner on the front panel. Start the set and monitor the voltage on that M7 terminal...

Looks like you're not getting adequate 24 volts from S10 to the front panel area due to a poor connection. It's likely an issue with the connection of P7 to J7. The 24 volts from S10 flows thru pins P7-14 and J7-14 on its way to S17. I'd suggest you disconnect P7 from J7 and examine the pins...

From your description I'd suggest the following... 1) Put the Dead Crank Switch (S10) in NORMAL, Emergency Off Switch (S17) Pulled OUT and Circuit Breaker CB1 pushed in 2) Attach your hand held meters ground lead to chassis ground. 3) Put the Master Switch (S1) to the Prime/Run position. 4)...

For starters you may want to inspect the pins on the P6 / J6 connectors for corrosion. The N, L1, L2 & L3 signals come thru those connectors. Specifically pins 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 & 18. Here are the paths for L0, L1, L2 & L3 from S8 to S6 the AM-VM switch S8 L0 ------ TB4-4------P6-13 &...

Did the sets voltmeter ever work for you? What's the AC voltage at the convenience outlet? What's the voltage across the L1 L3 lugs with the contactor closed? With the AM-VM set to the 3 o'clock position it's supposed to read 240 volts if phase/voltage reconnection switch is set to 120/240V 1 Phase.

If adjusting the MPU doesn't help then I'd suggest the following. Watch relay K12 and see if it is also opening and closing with the behavior. If K12 doesn't move then check to see if K16-A has 24 volts during the behavior. It should be constant voltage.

OK, if K16 is doing that them it would appear that you may have a problem with S14 the Frequency Trip Switch. It's the leftmost item in the relay row. Looks like a relay but it isn't. What appears to be happening is that the S14 is "opening" and "closing" which causing K16 to open and close...

While holding S1 in START watch relay K16 to see if it is moving each time the fuel solenoid changes position during the cycling.

Even hotter without the bar in place

Sounds like one of the leads running from K1 to the output lugs has chaffed through the insulation and is shorting to the chassis. The clue here is removing the bonding bar makes the problem go away. Removing the bar eliminates the path from the chassis to Neutral. Pop the top cover off and...

If you have a hand held voltmeter watch the voltage on the middle terminal of the white 3 pin connector next to the solenoid. See if the voltage there drop out the moment the solenoid extends. Does the starter drop out at the same time? Also check for 24 volts on the pin on that connector to...