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** Scroll down for other assemblies available ** MEP-002A & MEP-003A Exciter Bridge Rectifier Assembly A4 Replaces NSN 5998-01-054-9637, 72-5179 and 332-1371 This is a replacement for the original A4 Exciter Bridge Rectifier assembly used in MEP-002A & MEP-003A generators. Brand new design...

TM 9-6115-642-24 has the droop adjustment procedure. Page 4-15

I suspect the 2 wires for the 2-wire Remote Start board picked up some electricity from the strike causing the Remote Start to initiate a start. After the start electricity disapated the Remote Start saw the lack of stray voltage and then did a generador stop

I've run across several of them that had either RTV or Dielectric grease on every electrical connection.

For those interested here is the procedure to get the board out of the inverter. Remove all the perimeter screws from the top panel and remove the panel. Top panel removed. Remove all the perimeter screws from the side panel and remove. There is some sticky foam tape by the connector...

Ray, The OL/SC moisture problem has to do with the main control board in the 831A's inverter. The main board is covered with potentiometers that are adjusted when the inverter is tuned at the factory. TRC decided to NOT seal the potentiometers after the inverter was finished. The problem...

Ray, The inverters in the 831's are fussy about high humidity and will throw OL/SC faults due to it. Will do a lengthy write up tomorrow on info I have about it and what looks like a promising solution. Kurt

Took the opportunity this week to mouse proof my new to me MEP-1030. Here are some pictures of how I went about it using 1/4 galvanized rat wire, zip ties and a bit of RTV. Popped the top off by removing all the perimeter bolts and the ones in the top of it. 10 mm wrench. All have captive...

DON'T DISASSEMBLE THEM. Zillions of tiny pieces... Here is an example of just one of the many openings in the Phase/Voltage switch to spray DEOXIT into. The switch is made up of many layers so you'll need to spray it into a lot of openings.

Short Circuit Fault is the one fault that Battle Short does not disable.

No problem about gathering info. It's how we all learn about these machines :) The panels breaker works on a thermal magnetic principal. It will tolerate a moderate overload for a while before it trips. It has to be a very large overload to get the breaker to trip quickly. The 803's Short...

The burden resistors run at well below their rated power so I wouldn't expect them to burn out. You might want to check the wires where they are soldered to each of them to check for broken strands of wire from vibration. Your 8K unit may run it OK assuming it doesn't have a Short Circuit...

For the 120 loads are they fairly balanced across L1 - N & L3 - N or all on L1 or L3? Agreed with nextelcupfan. Freezer compressor startup draw many times the faceplate amps until it gets up to speed. The contacts in the AM-VM switch and/or the Phase/Voltage switch might be a bit corroded...

FYI. On my 802 the voltage at the slave port is usually 28 volts after a minute of running. Upon starting it's about 27.7 volts before it climbs up. The slave port is essentially connected to the batteries.

Sounds like there may be a short in the wiring from the breaker to the outlet or possibly a bad FL1. You might want to remove the wire from the breakers B (Load) terminal and see if it still trips.

The aftermarket Voltage Regulator appears to be an ADVR-053. The ADVR-053 has been superseded by the ADVR-054 and appears a bit different than the -053. Oshkosh sold a kit using that module to replace the exciter. ---> Oshkosh Kit Here is a schematic of how their kit was wired in. It included...

An inverter charger can do it. The LIFEP04 batteries I have now each have an internal BMS. I use an external balancer to keep the batteries balanced. LIFEP04 are available that have internal heaters so that the batteries can be used in subfreezing environments. Mine are in the basement so I...

I'd strongly suggest using LIFEPO4 batteries and not lead acid. I've run my solar panels, charge controller and inverter for over 7 years now and am on my 3rd battery bank. First battery bank was comprised of 12v flood acid batteries in 48 volt configuration. Lasted about 2 years. Second...

The original thermocouple wires were probably much longer and the two wires were twisted and welded at the tip. Looks like they chopped most of the wire off and just twisted the wires together and inserted them in the hose. Here's a picture of one of my thermocouples showing the weld at the tip.

Looks like a thermocouple probe