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Agreed. Readings are jumping around a bit in the video. If you need a new one with wiring let me know. I have a new potentiometer with wiring ready to ship.

No need to unsolder any wires. Just remove the wires attached to VR terminals 1 & 2. Then measure the resistance between the two wires as you rotate the voltage adjust. Should go from about 0 ohms to 5,000 ohms smoothly.

Moderately common failure of CR1. The voltage on both sides of CR1 should always be about 24 Vdc with Dead Crank in Normal and regardless of the position of S1 or S2.

Sounds like a bad CR1. It's a 1N5406 3 amp diode.

Musta missed that. Woke up way too early today.

Does the set turn over when S1 is in START? Does the Fuel Solenoid retract when you are cranking the engine with S1?

Yup, wrong part plugged in there. What you have in there is a regular relay. You need an actual S14 plugged in there.

The leftmost item in the row is S14. It should NOT be a relay. S14 is in a relay case but contains a circuit board with an IC and a few other components on the circuit board inside it. If you have a regular relay in that location then that is likely the problem. I have S14's available in the...

Here is the pinout of one of the KUP relays in the row. It depicts the screw terminals on the sockets. The terminal numbers are also molded into the sockets. I believe you meant S14 not S12. There shouldn't be any wires on the A and B terminals. S14 isn't a relay. It's a Frequency Trip...

If you're losing power to CR1 then it looks like there is a continuity issue from the dead crank switch S10 terminal 3 to CR1 terminal 1. Here is the wiring path from S10-3 to CR1. ------------ wire# 178A --------------------wire# 178B----------------wire# 178C...

The TM to look at is: TM 9-6115-644-24 ** Corrected TM #

1N1190 Qty 3 1N1190R Qty 3 pages 178 & 179 of TM 9-6115-464-24P

Does the set Dead Crank reliably? The -24 TM has the schematics for troubleshooting. It also has a section for no crank troubleshooting. Watch the DC voltage at both ends of CR1 to see it both stay around 24 volts when attempting to start. They should. Check the DC voltage on any terminal...

Check the -24P TM. It has a diagram with all the parts that make up the drain with part numbers.

The AM-VM switch just connects the voltmeter and load meter to the various points. It does not have anything to do with switching power to the lugs. There isn't any "circuit breaker" for the output at the lugs. The generator has current sensors for each of the output legs. If the sensors...

Per the -10 TM... "Two batteries are required, one on each side of the generator set. The batteries are electrolyte serviceable, lead acid, 12 volt type, connected in series. After starting, the generator set is capable of operating with batteries removed. A diode and a fuse, located behind the...

Here's a picture of one that burst.

Check the tops of the 12 large black electrolytic caps to see if any of them split their tops open. They have stamped lines on the tops that create a burst point in the case.

Remote Start Controller Kits For use in MEP-802A, MEP803A, MEP-804A, MEP-804B, MEP805A & EMP-806A Generators WiFi Remote Control & 2-Wire Start/Stop Features include: · Remote genset Start/Stop via WIFI via cell phone, laptop, tablet · Direct WiFi communication. No router needed. Works during...

MEP-804A, MEP-804B, MEP-805A, MEP-806A Replacement A1 AC Voltage Regulator Replaces 6110-01-368-7123, 6110-01-379-7187, 19870, 19890-001, 6110-01-374-0836, 6110-01-384-7192, 122-3055, 19880-1, 6110-01-384-7063, 6110-01-384-7352, 19880-002, 19890-003, Features include: • Can be used...