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That hose is all cracked and needs to be replaced. Likely the others too.

You should have about 24 volts DC at S1-5, not 8.56. Here is the wiring path from the battery positive to S1-5. Check for 24 volts along the path point by point starting at the battery positive. Bat+-----Starter Big Terminal-----SR1+----K2-A1-----K13-A1-----P7-17/J7-17---TB5-13B/13A----CB1...

As mentioned, check the fuse on the left of the Voltage Regulator. Does the generator make voltage when the set is running and you hold S1 in START? If so I'd suggest testing the AC Voltage Regulator per the -24 TM.

The gensets for Patriot would be 400 Hz units. The one powering the Radar Shelter would be a big one since it draws a lot of power to light up the TWT's. I'm sure Guy will chime in on what they are.

Don't bother running it with K12 removed. Doing so prevents the Governor Controller from every getting power. If the set shuts down while running AND K12 isn't illuminated when the engine comes to a stop indicates it stopped for some reason other than the Fault Monitor detecting a fault...

I only have one kit left. I don't plan on producing any more once it's gone.

Here is a link to a thread that shows the waveforms of various gensets vs utility power. Waveforms

The outlet should has 120 volts AC. The back of the meter will have either 120 or 208 volts depending on the setting of the AM-VM switch. The assumes the voltage reconnect plate is in the 120/208 position.

A handheld voltmeter that can measure frequency will do the trick. Also a handy device to have is a Kill-a-Watt meter. Great for measuring AC voltage, Frequency and load if something is plugged into its outlet. Do you have the frequency switch set to 60?

It would be best if you start your own thread about your M3 issue. That way you'll get the right help and not have it get lost in this thread which is a different topic.

I finally found the picture of the insides of the Current Transformer that I mentioned above.

With the remote start the starter is still automatically disabled as soon as the generators crank disconnect system sees the engine RPM over 900 regardless of how long you have the cranking parameter set to in the remote start. If the generators crank disconnect system is not working then the...

In the video it appears that the set is just being started and the bad noise comes and goes for a few seconds and then stops. My guess is that the "crank disconnect" circuit in the set is failing causing the starter to grind during the start cycle. The crank disconnect circuit is there to...

Wow, what a difference!

Yes, you have it exactly correct. You may not be able to PM me yet but my email address is in the listing.

PM me if you need any. I have 6 or so new ones available. Kurt

Shook up:) Click on my signature below to get to my listings in the forum classifieds. Or click this -> Listings

CR2 is not the static exciter coil. CR2 is just a diode in the circuit that provides the flashing voltage to the static exciter. F- and F+ shown above go to the VR terminals 1 & 3 and then on to the static exciter via P5 pins 28 & 29

24 is way to high. Disconnect the wires from VR terminals 1 and 3. Measure the resistance between those two wires. It should be 28 to 38 ohms. This is checking continuity to and the resistance of the static Exciter coil.

Need to measure DC voltage there, not AC. Should be about 10 volts DC with S1 in Start.