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In addtition to the solenoid it's also missing: Radiator hoses Primary fuel pump and possible some fuel line Fuel return line Fuel filter All easy fixes Open the gauge panel and take a pic in there

"Pins D&E: 85.8 VDC (nominal 0) (yes, checked this 3 times)" It was probably actually millivolts or microvolts and your meter autoranged. The signal across D&E is normally almost 0 VDC at No load and just about 5 VDC at full load. It's the load signal from the inverter to the A5 to tell it...

As long as you can provide the SSID & Password for the hotspot it should be able to hook up to the hotspot via WiFi.

Green Mountain Generator has them.

My systems can do remote monitoring of all engine and generator parameters as well as control it. It's done via WiFi to a wireless router. Monitoring can then be done via the internet.

1) I noticed the white Molex connector and wires for the actuator were getting caught on the actuator arm throughout the video. You need to reposition them, so they don't interfere with the actuator. 2) There is at least one A5 problem. The actuator should lift off the magnet the moment you...

After you verify your batteries are good and fully charged... To help isolate the cause of the starter dropping out you could measure the DC voltage at relay K16 terminals 6 & 9 with respect to chassis ground. Both terminals should have about 24 volts DC on them when cranking. If both have 24...

Attempting to start via S1 also engages the Preheaters which draw a lot of power. When dead cranking the preheaters are not powered.

Fuel goes into the IP's thru the rubber hoses. You can remove one and see if fuel squirts out when the fuel pump is running. If so then reattach the hose and then loosen the hard line on top of the IP. Turn the set over with S1 and see if fuel weeps out when attempting to start it. If you got...

The correct number of turns of each wire thru the CT? For the 802 it's 8 turns. For the 803 it's 4 turns.

The black knob should be set to the START position and locked there.

Sounds like you are using the pull start. Once it starts you need to move S1 briefly to Start and then release it. Then lift the actuator a bit to allow the manual start pin to pop out. Then slowly lower the actuator to allow the electronic governor to take over. Se the Manual Start plate on...

It may be that the Governor Controller needs to be adjusted or possibly it's bad. There is an adjustment procedure in the -24 for adjusting it. It could be its adjusted to be a bit too aggressive and is overshooting and undershooting the target RPM of 1,800 RPM thus causing the oscillation in RPM.

The voltages need to be taken across the terminal pairs such A & B, A & C, B & C. IE hook one meter probe to terminal A and the other to terminal B. 293 Hz is way to high a frequency/RPM for no load. You need to perform the Governor Adjustment procedure . It's in the 13&P TM. If you can't...

Something you should check is the AC voltage across terminals A & B on the Governor Controller behind the gauge panel. Do this with the engine running and no load applied. At no load the AC voltage should be about 178 volts AC. If your meter can measure frequency the AC frequency across those...

It's extremely hard to find working inverters for sale. I've never seen just the main board for sale. I could replace the SSR for you but no guarantee it's not another problem with the board causing it not close. @Dewie38 may have something though.

Based on those readings it would look like the problem is inside the Inverter. Specifically, there is a Solid-State Relay (SSR) K8 inside the Inverter isn't "closing" to enable the contactor to close and send power to the lugs. The problem could be with K8 or the circuitry in the inverter that...

Yes, thats a Libby VR

Getting no voltage at step j indicates the Quad winding in the get head isn't working or there is a wiring or connection issue from the Quad winding to the VR. Check for a broken wire where the wires exit the gen head. Next disconnect cable P5 from the bottom of the control cube and inspect the...

It means that if all the above tests pass then the VR is bad. When you did test j did you have your meter set to AC volts an the meters leads connected to terminals 7 & 8 while holding S1 in START?