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Why do FMTVs never have a tailchain/hook on the end of the cable? Nothing of the sort is listed in the TMs either. I would be very curious why the Army accepted delivery from my favorite hometown contractor Stewart and Stevenson like this. What are you folks doing to solve the problem? I'm...
Until you engage mode, the inter-axle differential is not locked and if traction is lost on a wheel it will spin like you witnessed. Suprman is a member here, send him a PM and inquire about the dryers. For 4800 you stole it, that is what non-runners bring at auction.
I always tell my wife that I'm storing that truck for a fellow collector. How do you know the front wheels are not under power? That would mean you can only drive it in mode. Get a MRAP dryer for it from suprman, the original is not that great.
On the Dodge military engine, you cannot stab the distributor 180 out, the drive tab into the oil pump gear is offset. Possibly the oil pump gear is not clocked correctly to the cam.
Try unbolting the starter while still wired up and strap it to the driveshaft/spring and see if it spins when you press the button. Yes: could your engine be stuck or a piece of the nose went in the bellhousing jambing the flywheel? No: starter motor is no good.
Marine construction companies use those, military museums are often looking for them, movie rental deals? I pulled one of those around behind my M880 on a tandem axle boat trailer for a while, they are not that heavy.
Now your big International bridge truck, that is heavy.
Measure the voltage at the starter solenoid stud with the start button pressed just to eliminate the possibility of bad batteries. If you still have 24 volts, my guess is the starter someone sold you may be wrong.
Key pad dark could mean power interruptions to the Allison, or issues with the Allison keypad or transmission controller. The Allison does not have a "limp mode" like the 4L80E, if power is lost, it will not drive I believe. If you were still able to drive and auto shift with the controller...
Ponway, thanks for this post and the pictures you posted in your album, they are one of a kind. What is your opinion of what simp is going for here, specifically, the 7155 behind 250 hp not 400+?
Turn on the lights and use your voltmeter to measure between the truck frame and: 1) the negative chassis ground battery post, 2) the +24 volt battery post, the +24 volt terminal on the starter motor. Readings should be zero, +24, +24.
Radiator could be plugged. Hydraulic fan clutch the same between 6.5 and 6.2. Are you sure you installed the appropriate pump for v-belt or serpentine application?
The damage shown in the technical bulletin you provided is exactly what I have seen on 3 other Caiman IIs. The rotor shows heat discoloration and has galled residue from the pads all over it.
Voltage that appears and disappears with lighting loads is almost always battery terminal or battery cable connection problems. Remove the ends of the positive and negative cables one by one, clean and retighten. Oh and welcome to the website.
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